tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57475792078371492812024-03-10T22:22:55.276-05:00The Old House BlogWelcome to the Historic Design Consulting blog! Historic Design provides consulting services that assist owners restore and preserve their 19th century homes and commercial buildings. This blog is devoted to architectural history, covering subjects such as house styles, preservation, construction and building trades, maintenance and historic color schemes. For professional guidance when restoring your historic property, please visit the HDC website and click on the “Contact Us “ button .Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-30172912646365945682018-03-18T12:01:00.002-05:002018-03-18T12:01:31.022-05:00Insulation, Cold and Drafts in Your Historic Home.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNxQKjOz5nFtkTPtMrlOOg8ObIpguAwp9c4Xrg3cG5tGVDw4lLPi480X6WLVjTJH4l9WxUsD1RFamOUZhoac_Z7oJ00r6-B1cO1-OnK8AfFvVBhvEK3NEd7vg95i8IewagcFhdhHKosw4/s1600/Heater-Paliser-300x203.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="203" data-original-width="300" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNxQKjOz5nFtkTPtMrlOOg8ObIpguAwp9c4Xrg3cG5tGVDw4lLPi480X6WLVjTJH4l9WxUsD1RFamOUZhoac_Z7oJ00r6-B1cO1-OnK8AfFvVBhvEK3NEd7vg95i8IewagcFhdhHKosw4/s320/Heater-Paliser-300x203.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Advertisement for a furnace from an 1889 Palliser and Palliser plan book.</em></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 36pt;"><strong>O</strong></span>ur national cold snap has led to many questions about insulating historic homes, thermal efficiency, windows, doors and much more. I thought I would outline a few things that you should consider when trying to improve the thermal efficiency of your older home.<br />
Generally speaking, houses lose heat in two ways. One is radiation. Radiation is the process of emitting energy via waves. When we stand in the sun and feel its warmth on our face, we are experiencing radiation. Houses radiate heat through their walls. Another way houses loose heat is convection, which is the movement of warm and cold air. Convection is commonly known as drafts and is caused by gaps in the building envelope such as loose windows or spaces around vents or electrical conduit.<br />
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I recommend taking a three stage process when you are looking to improve the thermal performance of your home</h4>
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<strong>ONE: The first stage is dealing with convection/drafts.</strong> Believe it or not, this is how many older homes loose the most heat. It is also what causes the most discomfort. The first place to look is around doors and windows. The thermal efficiency of historic windows is quite good <strong>IF</strong> they are tightly sealed and you have storm windows. Make sure the window sashes do not rattle or are loose in the window frames. If they are loose make sure the window stop hasn’t moved or been damaged. Make sure the sash locks are placed properly. One inexpensive way to seal windows is <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=asc_df_B000LNODSQ5324049/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000LNODSQ&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167120909983&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3391141702995636243&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019560&hvtargid=pla-315946804228">rope caulk</a>. Rope caulk is a flexible caulk that you buy in rolls that can be used to seal gaps around windows and can be easily removed in the spring. Old-time <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Pemko-Spring-Bronze-Weatherstrip-1-125/dp/B00002N73U">spring bronze</a> is a proven way to seal exterior doors. Other places to look for gaps are in the foundation and between the foundation and sill, around electrical conduits, electrical outlets and plumbing and vent pipes. These gaps can be sealed with caulk or foam. Fireplace flues can be especially problematic and should always have their dampers closed when not in use.<br />
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<strong>TWO: The second stage is attic insulation</strong>. Heat rises within the building envelope and having adequate attic insulation will ensure heat energy remains in your home and not escape through our attic. In short, your house needs to wear a hat. Insulation requirements vary region by region, but zones 5 through 8 typically require an insulation value of up to R60. This is also important because attic insulation will keep your roof cold, meaning snow will not melt and cause ice dams. Ice dams can be very destructive and are particularly troublesome on older homes with elaborate trim and complex roof lines with many valleys.<br />
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<strong>THREE: The third stage is slowing heat loss through radiation with wall insulation.</strong> However, I am very reluctant to recommend it generally. There are several reasons why. First, it can be very expensive and the payback time can last decades. In other words, it can take many years for the savings in heating bills to equal the costs of installing insulation.<br />
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It can also cause some serious issues with moisture. Older houses need to breathe, and they do so by vapor pressure forcing moisture to the outside through the building envelope. Wall insulation can trap moisture in the wall cavities and lead to mold and rot. This is especially true with spray foam insulation. Blown insulation often settles leaving open areas at the top of wall cavities. Not only does this affect the performance of the insulation, but differences in the thermal gradient can cause condensation. When cold air in a pocket comes in contact with warm and moist air or insulation it can cause water vapor to condense.<br />
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Spray foam on masonry can be especially problematic. Since foam is impermeable to water vapor it can trap moisture in brick or stone. If moisture can't escape the masonry it can lead to spalling during the freeze and thaw cycle. Insulation in masonry can even exacerbate temperature gradients between areas of heavy mass and lighter mass. Heavily massed areas like piers are a usually bit warmer and lighter massed areas like curtain walls are colder. When insulation exacerbates these differences in temperature it can lead to even more condensation. Furthermore, old foundations built with lime mortar are water permeable, meaning rising damp can cause moisture problems in absorbent insulation towards the bottoms of walls cavities.<br />
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If you decide wall insulation is necessary, what do I recommend? Blown insulation is probably the best option. Painted interior walls do provide some vapor barrier protection. It is also important to vent bathrooms to the exterior to prevent moisture build up. Be sure your furnace or boiler is operating efficiently too because inefficient combustion can produce even more water vapor. If you decide you need wall insulation, be sure the installer is good at what they do and do not leave gaps in the wall cavities. I do not recommend spray foam in an older home.<br />
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There you have it. Sealing and insulating historic homes does present some challenges, but they can be warm and cozy if you take a few steps. Stopping drafts and convection is the first priority. Focusing on your attic is second. Wall insulation is a third option. However, it is a last resort and can lead to some real problems down the road.Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-47844342851696809082018-03-18T11:54:00.002-05:002018-03-18T11:54:59.620-05:00Danebod: A Danish Community in Southwest Minnesota.<span style="font-size: 36pt;"><strong>I</strong></span>mmigration to the United States has always been a difficult experience that led many newcomers to question their own identities as they tried to build a new life in their new home. Immigrant groups reacted differently as some quickly learned English and adopted American culture. Others clung to their language and customs as they feared losing their native identities in the crush of American culture. Many fell somewhere in between. One group of Danish immigrants took a very radical approach and created their own community, the Danebod, in Tyler, MN. It was an effort to remove themselves from American popular culture and preserve their native language, religion and heritage.<br />
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Danish pastors Adam Dan and Rasmus Andersen created a religious organization in Wisconsin known as the Danish Evangelical Lutheran Church in America in the 1870s. During a church convention in 1884, an Iowa farmer Rasmus Hansen of suggested the church establish a rural community where the widely scattered Danish immigrants could settle and create an ideal Danish community. A committee was formed and purchased 35,000 acres near Tyler, MN and, by 1885, around 70 settlers had homesteaded on the land.<br />
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These Danish settlers were Grundtvigians, which was a faction within the Danish National Church in America. They were nationalists and religious liberals who celebrated worldly life and were devoted to preserving their Danish heritage. To do so, the Grundtvigian colony in Tyler sought to preserve a common land and preserve their Danish heritage through the study of Danish history, language and culture and teach folk songs, food, and dances to their children.<br />
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Today four buildings survive in Tyler from this Danish community: An 1895 church; the 1889 Stone Hall; the 1917 Folk School and the 1904 Gym Hall. All are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_EVBHXrz87ki-IJ6I70j2ZAtEbiNbrCGTKnrdWjtcjskHykUbiUEzMCfzbRkQ0Q-N8KHwtjm7atP9QwK1IbdLyziT87urqa_UOvLaEVJTeB4We6y_ueHxGtDXyXwrwqtJdjS_BU8FE0/s1600/Danebod+Church.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1600" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_EVBHXrz87ki-IJ6I70j2ZAtEbiNbrCGTKnrdWjtcjskHykUbiUEzMCfzbRkQ0Q-N8KHwtjm7atP9QwK1IbdLyziT87urqa_UOvLaEVJTeB4We6y_ueHxGtDXyXwrwqtJdjS_BU8FE0/s640/Danebod+Church.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>The 1895 Danebod church with Eastlake ornament.</em></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgueI10wY6ktVOO1bQLL4apxbz-mKm82DADD1AMRKUKWFn_iuHcIRvwU_wHL9FBUbLb-UNxwvbc3uEDtmYAlezpzJAtnMfpNcbuvWxLRhaK4NpPjlTQvwqFKm8vWZC8cUIcSZ2ZBteo76U/s1600/Danebod+Stone+Hall.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1025" data-original-width="1600" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgueI10wY6ktVOO1bQLL4apxbz-mKm82DADD1AMRKUKWFn_iuHcIRvwU_wHL9FBUbLb-UNxwvbc3uEDtmYAlezpzJAtnMfpNcbuvWxLRhaK4NpPjlTQvwqFKm8vWZC8cUIcSZ2ZBteo76U/s640/Danebod+Stone+Hall.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>The 1898 Stone Hall was built from local filed stone and was used as a church, gymnasium and assembly hall.</em></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhck5AvTJpPlRju-C7RorJL71Yugap02rqAkOMUi-7raDAHYhvl31bRyKm5vpPWmxJkZOq0JMTYiQe9kWdicPQrcdCXYvkhdi62JTVSIRqx9LmsDHevrBs1XTWZjDKqorSiuIlw1y09GCY/s1600/Danebod+Folk+School.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1001" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhck5AvTJpPlRju-C7RorJL71Yugap02rqAkOMUi-7raDAHYhvl31bRyKm5vpPWmxJkZOq0JMTYiQe9kWdicPQrcdCXYvkhdi62JTVSIRqx9LmsDHevrBs1XTWZjDKqorSiuIlw1y09GCY/s640/Danebod+Folk+School.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>The 1917 Danebod Folk School. The brick building is an eclectic mix of Gothic and Romanesque with Danish-style gables with parapets. The school served as a high school which emphasized community and citizenship by teaching the Danish language and folk culture. </em></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLH45UIahTbGy2wn61S2bDwVfzNdcbxCI8xXPUjk2Pm7Ic4WENSsaUI44GvsjLoMVOlYOpxUr2s0r53BUci5dloOeEGx5r0trLZapDXqN7r5tKTCuT2jH-adMhrqWyVI7fI1vf8m0_3e0/s1600/Danebod+Gym.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1023" data-original-width="1600" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLH45UIahTbGy2wn61S2bDwVfzNdcbxCI8xXPUjk2Pm7Ic4WENSsaUI44GvsjLoMVOlYOpxUr2s0r53BUci5dloOeEGx5r0trLZapDXqN7r5tKTCuT2jH-adMhrqWyVI7fI1vf8m0_3e0/s640/Danebod+Gym.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>The wood-frame, 1904 gym has medieval-style towers which resemble the tower on the 1917 folk school. This building was used for gymnastics, folk dancing, music, theatrical performances, and religious and social social gatherings.</em></td></tr>
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<br />Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-2581561929631149562017-08-19T15:31:00.004-05:002017-08-19T15:31:26.007-05:00Restoration, Renovation, Rehabilitation, Conservation: What Does it All Mean?<span style="font-size: 24pt;"><strong>W</strong></span>hen talking about historic architecture we often use terms such as restoration, renovation, conservation or rehabilitation. However, these terms have very specific meanings when used in particular contexts which can be quite different from how they are commonly understood. It can be especially confusing when speaking to preservation professionals who use these terms following established definitions. For instance, we frequently hear people describe "restoring" their 1890s home by remodeling or updating the kitchen and plumbing or installing French doors. Is this truly a restoration? Keep reading to find out how a preservation professional uses these terms so we can all be on the same page and avoid confusion.<br />
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<strong>Restoration: </strong>A true restoration is the process of returning a building to its appearance and condition at a specific period in time. This means making a house look exactly like it did at a certain date, including recreating the wallpaper, matching historic paint colors and matching or reproducing fixtures and hardware. True restorations are quite rare and largely limited to house museums like Mt. Vernon or Monticello. Many of the things called restorations really aren't. The example I gave above of remodeling and updating a kitchen and plumbing is not, in fact, a restoration.<br />
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<strong>Renovation:</strong> If remodeling and updating a kitchen and plumbing is not a restoration, what is it? It is a renovation. Renovation is the process of making something look and function like new. Replacing period HVAC, plumbing and wiring or adding French doors is a renovation since you are making an historic building work and function like a new building according to today's standards. Although a renovation can be quite sensitive to the historic nature of a building and preserve as much as possible, it is a different act. Although there can be some overlap between restoration and renovation, it is good to appreciate the differences.<br />
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<strong>Rehabilitation:</strong> Rehabilitation means something very similar to renovation, but it is often used in a slightly different context. Rehabilitation is the process which seeks to preserve the historical portions or features of a building while making the building compatible with a new use. A good example is rehabilitating a brick, 1870s horseshoe factory to be used as lofts or commercial space. This term is often used in conjunction with tax credits which encourage the preservation of historic building for income-producing businesses.<br />
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<strong>Conservation:</strong> Conservation is also fairly rare and normally done in house museums. Conservation is the preservation of particular building features for the future. In other words, it is the process of arresting decay or decline so that the original workmanship and materials survive as they are now found. This might mean cleaning and protecting a fresco in a church so that it doesn't continue to be degraded by leaking water or soot. It is different from restoration because restoration would mean returning the fresco to its appearance when the church was built. However, restoration can be a destructive process because, in order to make the fresco appear new, you would have to alter or destroy some of the original workmanship. Sometimes the materials and workmanship have such historical value that we simply halt their decay and leave things as they are so that we can appreciate them as examples of historic craftsmanship.Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-42932013507892625602017-08-19T15:28:00.005-05:002017-08-19T15:28:51.199-05:00Is your woodwork hungry? Should you feed it?<span style="font-size: 24pt;"><strong>W</strong></span>e all know there is plenty of advice on the internet and that some of it is very good and some of it is poor. One topic that I encounter frequently as a preservation consultant is the care of historic woodwork and furniture and the apparent need to feed, nourish or moisturize wood. Unfortunately, most of the information circulating on Facebook and the internet about this is quite incorrect. Although I may be a voice in the wilderness, here is my attempt to set the record straight.<br />
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Your woodwork does not get hungry. It does not get thirsty. It does not need to be fed. You do not need to give it a drink. Examples, testimonials and recommendations of people doing so are legion but they are misguided. Moisture in your woodwork or furniture is a function of the ambient humidity in its environment. Humid air means wood has a higher moisture content and drier air means wood has a lower moisture content. It is as simple as that. What is important is to limit the frequency and amplitude of swings in humidity and temperature because this cycle of expansion, contraction and moisture content will cause wood to swell and contract and can degrade historic finishes or cause cracks and checking. It is important to moderate these swings to the extent you are able by limiting changes in temperature and humidity levels.<br />
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“Feeding” your woodwork or furniture with linseed oil, tung oil or orange oil will not replenish moisture. After all, how can oil replace water? If you are thirsty do you grab a bottle of Wesson oil out of the pantry and take a drink? Of course not, and your woodwork is no different. Oil doesn’t feed wood either, but it can be quite harmful.<br />
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There are two types of oil commonly used on woodwork: Drying oils and non-drying oils.<br />
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<li><u>Drying oils</u>: These include linseed oil and tung oil. They are called drying oils because the molecules cross link or polymerize when exposed to oxygen. That is, they harden or form a film. This is why they are used in varnishes, paints and other finishes. They are harmful because continued use will saturated the wood and, when they drying oils oxidize over time, they will turn dark or black. This is irreversible. The real tragedy is that this process can take years or even decades. People will swear up and down that this is untrue, but this is only because they haven’t been around long enough to witness the entire process. Ask any furniture conservator what they have seen. Indeed, many museums have wonderful pieces of furniture that have been ruined because they were repeatedly sopped with linseed oil decades ago and subsequently have turned dark or even black. The key word to remember here is CONTINUED use. Although drying oils were used historically to make varnishes, paints or other finishes, it is the continued, repeated and liberal use of drying oils that saturates the wood and can cause damage down the road.</li>
<li><u>Non-drying oils</u>: These include orange oil and lemon oil which are often mixed with beeswax. They are called non-drying oils because they do not cross link like linseed oil and remain liquid or semi-liquid. Although they aren’t harmful like drying oils can be, they don’t nourish or feed wood. When used on vanished wood they sit on top of the existing varnish and, over time, will form a gummy film after the volatile elements have evaporated. The gummy film can be quite thin but still will attract dirt and grime and create a mess that can be especially nasty on molding and in corners. To combat this people will apply more orange or lemon oil to revive it. This does restore a shine temporarily, but the process continues. Non-drying oil should never be used on unfinished wood because the oily gunk will penetrate the wood and cannot be removed.</li>
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What are we to do to care for woodwork and furniture? A paste wax polish on a clean surface. Woodwork should be clean and dry and covered with a paste wax or beeswax polish (with no orange oil!). There are plenty of good products on the market that work well. I make my own paste wax using an 1850s recipe that I tint to match the color of the woodwork. This is one case where what they used years ago continues to work today. A yearly coat of wax is all that is needed to protect your woodwork or furniture.<br />
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One more thing to remember. Never use anything out of an aerosol can since these sprays contain silicates which can saturate the finish and can't be removed. Natural wax finishes are the way to go.<br />
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I know there are people reading this who will strongly object and assert that I am uninformed and completely incorrect. They will claim they’ve been using products containing linseed oil to condition their woodwork for years with no ill effects. Well, I have made my case and you are free to do what you wish. However, if have any doubts and are curious, feel free to Google the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works and see what they say. Or, keep saturating your woodwork with linseed oil and hope for the best.Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-36553520227258991222017-03-04T11:04:00.002-06:002017-03-19T12:33:51.829-05:00Pressure Washers and Painting: Should You or Shouldn't You?<div style="color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><strong><span data-mce-style="font-size: 24pt;" style="font-size: 24pt;">T</span></strong>here are conflicting messages about using pressure washers when prepping building exteriors for painting. Some insist that pressure washers should never be used while others maintain that they are just fine and use them both for paint removal and cleaning. Which is accurate? As with most things, the truth is somewhere in between and depends on circumstance.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">First, it is true that pressure washers should never be used to REMOVE paint. In order to remove paint effectively you need to dial the water pressure up to blast away the old paint layers. Unfortunately, this also means that the wood siding or stucco can be damaged or eroded. This is especially true on historic buildings because they typically have areas which are in good and others in poor condition (often on the same piece of siding). Remember, pressure washers are powerful enough to mar stone such as granite, so even at a relatively low setting a wood substrate can be affected. Some would argue that they can dial the pressure down so that it won't damage the wood. However, in order to to make a pressure washer effective, the pressure has to be set fairly high. The photo below shows clapboards where wood fibers have actually been torn away from the surface. The best and safest way to remove paint from historic exteriors is by scraping and sanding because it allows you to vary pressure according to the condition of the siding.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Another problem with pressure washers is their tendency to drive water into cracks and gaps and saturate the siding itself or the sheathing behind it with water. When water has been driven behind the siding it can take weeks for it to dry. As the water evaporates and escapes through the siding as a vapor it can cause paint failure. Even the best primers and paints will not adhere to damp wood or wood releasing water vapor. The photo below shows siding on the same building that has more eroded wood as well as cracks around nails which would allow easy access to water from a pressure washer.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn_BD6D_oaQi_3ZLzeTrWxuJZRsPJBOZF4nw4qIYJE04qZclPQmaB815e7lupnFkYuxmMjhFMp-yIS4zhHuce8Taz2-sMXx1By_UpFz7nZi1sIgEuQwpNyAYJlJ5WSKNuWkboyL_OPSr8/s1600/Siding+Cracks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn_BD6D_oaQi_3ZLzeTrWxuJZRsPJBOZF4nw4qIYJE04qZclPQmaB815e7lupnFkYuxmMjhFMp-yIS4zhHuce8Taz2-sMXx1By_UpFz7nZi1sIgEuQwpNyAYJlJ5WSKNuWkboyL_OPSr8/s320/Siding+Cracks.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Does this mean pressure washers should never be used? No, not really. They can be fine when used at their lowest pressure setting as a means to CLEAN a wood or stucco surface. Care must be taken to direct the water stream at a correct angle so that water won't be driven underneath clapboards, battens or molding. However, a garden hose with a brush is just as effective and far less likely to damage the wood siding or drive moisture behind the surface. As is often the case when working on historic buildings, shortcuts can lead to poor results and there usually is no substitute for a little elbow grease.</span></div>
Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-35272224724510523052017-01-14T19:27:00.004-06:002017-01-14T19:28:39.229-06:00The National Register of Historic Places<h3 class="title-post entry-title" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #443f3f; font-family: Raleway, sans-serif; font-size: 20px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 10px; text-align: center;">
<span style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #993300;">Historic Design will donate free architecture research services for a local institution, business or individual in 2017! Click <em style="box-sizing: border-box;"><a href="http://historic-design.com/historic-design-will-donate-free-architecture-research-services-for-a-local-institution-business-or-individual-in-2017/" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; color: #993300; text-decoration: none; transition: all 0.3s ease-in-out;">here</a></em> to learn more.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">W</span></b>e frequently see and hear about historic buildings and other structures being listed on the National Register of Historic </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Places. However, it isn’t clear to many what the National Register is and what it really does. Does it protect a house from demolition? Does it prevent owners from building an addition, remodeling the kitchen or adding a bathroom? If your church is listed on the National Register does it mean you can't display the cross?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHT_EvEXabnEb41Y7zsQ50lQlyqXGsEpAGD2s6ydNNl6EvJLrkabcdS4nBGJWMbhClBC0NnHB3CRGcdMXlqeRlKI5SFxusFnGPLCyckyuiJl8xLBWoLF3cFOtCofaSyvA2QFi-nWvICwc/s1600/National-Register.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHT_EvEXabnEb41Y7zsQ50lQlyqXGsEpAGD2s6ydNNl6EvJLrkabcdS4nBGJWMbhClBC0NnHB3CRGcdMXlqeRlKI5SFxusFnGPLCyckyuiJl8xLBWoLF3cFOtCofaSyvA2QFi-nWvICwc/s320/National-Register.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">A centerpiece of the landmark 1966 <a href="http://ncshpo.org/resources/national-historic-preservation-act-of-1966/" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; text-decoration: none; transition: all 0.3s ease-in-out;">National Historic Protection Act</a>, the National Register of Historic Places is an official list of historic buildings, structures and places that are considered worthy of preservation. The National Register is administered by the National Park Service and is part of a larger federal program which coordinates and supports private and public efforts to identify, evaluate and protect our Nation’s historic resources. The listing is largely symbolic and itself offers no real or statutory or regulatory protection. In other words, listed buildings can be used, altered or even demolished in any manner, for any reason and at any time by their owners. Despite what you may hear, the National Register itself absolutely cannot prevent you from remodeling your kitchen, painting the exterior, adding a bathroom or displaying religious symbols.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">If the National register only provides recognition of a property’s historical, architectural, or archaeological significance without any regulatory teeth, what is the point of listing a property? First, listing a property is important as it does distinguish it and encourages the community to recognize and appreciate it historical and cultural significance. This is not insignificant as preservation has becomes a larger part of city planning and efforts to rebuild communities. Second, while the National Register itself is symbolic, inclusion on the Register can make the listee eligible for grants for restoration and rehabilitation, state, local and federal tax credits, preservation easements and some building and fire code alternatives. Although these programs and benefits usually require additional qualifications and regulations, a listing on the National Register is the first step towards eligibility.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Inclusion onto the list is considered according to one or more of four criteria:</span></div>
<ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-top: 0px;">
<li style="box-sizing: border-box;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 600;">Criterion A</span>: The property must make a contribution to major patterns in American History.</span></li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 600;">Criterion B</span>: The property is associated with significant people of the American past.</span></li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 600;">Criterion C</span>: The property has distinctive characteristics in its architecture and construction, including having great artistic value or being the work of a master.</span></li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 600;">Criterion D</span>: The property has yielded or may be likely to yield information important to prehistory or history</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The application process can be quite involved and complex. It includes documenting the building or property following established standards, historical research, evaluation of the building or property’s physical state (i.e. does it retain enough of its original, historic fabric), identification of its historical context and its eligibility according to one or more of the criteria.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The National Register application can be completed and submitted by anyone, although many property owners and public institutions rely on preservation professionals for part or all of the application. Consultants who are familiar with architectural history, regional or local architects and important local and national historical patterns can be particularly helpful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">If you have any questions about your historic house or building and the National Register, feel free to<span style="color: #767676;"> </span><a href="mailto:info@historic-design.com" target="_blank">contact Historic Design Consulting</a><span style="color: #767676;">.</span></span></div>
Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-11964083805789399112016-11-13T16:44:00.001-06:002017-08-19T15:29:29.542-05:00Historic Design will donate free architecture research services for a local institution, business or individual in 2017. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Mh-iUMbwe88CnJNeivkY1rT3sBW9WyFSZDDLfF_tOdLIB_CR5pePZc8XNP3qtHbdQgwbDDEXjmjV1UvDS7PETdi2f3Whp82LxLqJKLftJxd3n_-XhmfmtZFtN8s2ZDMpZRURIpWcGfw/s1600/National-register-Sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Mh-iUMbwe88CnJNeivkY1rT3sBW9WyFSZDDLfF_tOdLIB_CR5pePZc8XNP3qtHbdQgwbDDEXjmjV1UvDS7PETdi2f3Whp82LxLqJKLftJxd3n_-XhmfmtZFtN8s2ZDMpZRURIpWcGfw/s320/National-register-Sign.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>P</b></span>eople who choose a career in Historic Preservation and Cultural Resources Management do so for a variety of reasons. One thing that is common to us all is a deep and abiding interest in preserving our built heritage. This certainly is the case for us at Historic Design Consulting. <span style="color: #990000;"><i> In an effort to contribute to our community Historic Design Consulting will donate research services for a worthy project in the Minneapolis/St. Paul metropolitan area in 2017. </i></span><br />
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We will accept applicants through September of 2017. This is not a contest and we do not have any formal eligibility requirements. We will choose a project depending upon our schedule and the scope and type of the research project. This could be a context study for a National Register nomination, property evaluation or a general research report for a home or business. We do reserve the right to accept or deny project for any reason. <br />
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If you have any interest, please <a href="mailto:info@historic-design.com" target="_blank">contact Historic Design Consulting </a>and tell us a little about the project. We'd like to know where the building is, what sort of building (house, business, ???), when it was built, and what you would like to learn about it. <br />
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We are looking forward to hearing how we can help our own community preserve its architectural heritage!!!Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-38087663307903520882016-11-06T18:46:00.001-06:002016-11-12T10:59:31.079-06:00Historic Plaster and Somebody's Horse<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">P</span></b>laster has served as a durable coating for interior walls in both high style and common buildings for centuries. 19th century wall plaster was made from four ingredients: lime, sand aggregate, fiber and water. The lime was </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">the most important part of the mix as it cured and hardened much like concrete. Sand was a filler that also added structure. Water was the catalyst and the fiber held it all together while the plaster mix cured and hardened. Gypsum replaced lime in the 20th century because it set more rapidly and provided a harder, more durable finish more quickly. Since gypsum sets in minutes and cures in weeks (lime plaster required months to cure before it could be painted or papered), it made the addition of fiber unnecessary.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The lime was often produced in kilns from local limestone deposits. The sand aggregate usually came from a nearby river or lake which could also <span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; line-height: 107%;">provide</span> fresh water for mixing. What was the source of the fiber? More often than not, it also came from local source: an unsuspecting cow or horse from the barn out back.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I recently attended a workshop on repairing historic plaster organized by the </span><a href="http://www.mnpreservation.org/" style="font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif;" target="_blank">Preservation Alliance of Minnesota</a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">. Our leader for the day was Anders Christensen of </span><a href="http://tigeroxpainting.com/index" style="font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif;" target="_blank">TigerOx</a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">, a Twin Cities painting and <span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; line-height: 107%;">plastering</span> company that frequently works on historic buildings. Rather than </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">spending the day</span> </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">in a classroom we had the privilege of working on <span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; line-height: 107%;">an</span> actual historic site, the 1867 <a href="http://www.carvercountyhistoricalsociety.org/peterson_farm.php" target="_blank">Andrew Peterson</a> farmhouse in Waconia, MN.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">In high style houses the plaster was applied in three coats over split or sawn lathe. <span style="line-height: 107%;">The first two coats, called the scratch and brown coats, were thick,
coarse and contained the animal fiber with lots of aggregate. This constituted the
bulk of the wall plaster.</span> </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">These two coats were finished with a thin layer of
finish plaster. The finish coat had little aggregate and was troweled to a
smooth finish.</span><br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">However, when we looked at the walls in the Peterson house, we found something quite different. The Peterson house was built by Andrew himself, who was a farmer and not a professional carpenter or plasterer. Rather than three coats, we found one, rather coarse coat of plaster. This is not uncommon at all in vernacular buildings such as farmhouses or city buildings which weren't built by professional tradesmen. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Ixtsq90BBggc-PaBnQ2xpmZmrGEc86X-haQp9Ynqypwy_U2Ta94_sB7tfBHDWwUxSoV752ai3mLE4dAb4i4gCQhemSu6EWS8Le-fzcTggDEfE7o2DAJkRnvvFzXqkoTtVF0mHK8aSOE/s1600/Plaster-III.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Ixtsq90BBggc-PaBnQ2xpmZmrGEc86X-haQp9Ynqypwy_U2Ta94_sB7tfBHDWwUxSoV752ai3mLE4dAb4i4gCQhemSu6EWS8Le-fzcTggDEfE7o2DAJkRnvvFzXqkoTtVF0mHK8aSOE/s400/Plaster-III.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This is one of the holes we repaired in the Andrew Peterson farmhouse. Notice <br />the single layer of plaster with a sand aggregate. </span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">What was also interesting was what you could see in a few chunks of loose plaster. The animal hair used to bind the <span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; line-height: 107%;">plaster </span>was quite obvious. I'm not sure what sort of critter donated its hair in 1867, but it was chestnut brown and rather soft. A horse, perhaps? Whatever it was, it is long gone. <span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">That
is, w</span>ith the exception of its hair, which survives 150 years later in the walls of the Peterson farm house.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPFH3dxL1GK_PRrw0nn6nml372crVEyoIDTkcz3Lc4r3L2NE8PC54Yjm4tw0tNQijcyMlZtNL9rXX2rDNGizQpH-axKqvMeFw65v4Ot5jZ7Ho0V9UVFCJidhRZBPkQHJsomX9dnrySPE/s1600/Plaster-Piece-I.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPFH3dxL1GK_PRrw0nn6nml372crVEyoIDTkcz3Lc4r3L2NE8PC54Yjm4tw0tNQijcyMlZtNL9rXX2rDNGizQpH-axKqvMeFw65v4Ot5jZ7Ho0V9UVFCJidhRZBPkQHJsomX9dnrySPE/s400/Plaster-Piece-I.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">A piece of plaster with the animal hair fiber.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /><span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif;">Something else </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; line-height: 107%;">that</span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; line-height: 107%;">interested me</span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif;"> were traces</span> of paint on another piece of plaster. I noticed a few remnants of a light, purplish-blue paint. The color is a light pastel which was common in house interiors into the 20th century. I suspect it is a calcimine or distemper paint. Calcimine paints were water based and fairly durable because the pigments were bound to the wall with size, or diluted animal glue.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8LWRUHdZDJ3ZrnkQsHBk9jishrWTSPAmIdjyfitUu5XzS40yY2viRrzLJj3gcbTxJWuVPu9SVE7XP7BPm8En6pPGDiGrkLr7gTmONwHwEzt8lSQOj6KWNGCwbcjoQbuWP0uLIvm_KjgI/s1600/Plaster-Piece-II.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8LWRUHdZDJ3ZrnkQsHBk9jishrWTSPAmIdjyfitUu5XzS40yY2viRrzLJj3gcbTxJWuVPu9SVE7XP7BPm8En6pPGDiGrkLr7gTmONwHwEzt8lSQOj6KWNGCwbcjoQbuWP0uLIvm_KjgI/s400/Plaster-Piece-II.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Another piece of plaster with a few remnants of what appears to<br /> be a light, purplish- blue paint</i>. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The next time you find yourself in a 19<sup>th</sup>
century home, take a look at the plaster walls.
Is it coarse with lots of sand or is it troweled smooth and flat? <span style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; line-height: 107%;">If it is </span>smooth, it probably was applied by a
skilled tradesman. If not, it might have
been plastered by the homeowner himself.
In either case, it is likely some sort of quadruped also made its own,
valuable contribution. </span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-84988860349907611212016-09-07T12:33:00.002-05:002016-09-07T21:17:37.844-05:00An Interesting Artifact for the Fan of Historic Homes<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>A</b></span>n important ritual for many American men during the 19th century was a weekly trip to the barber shop for a shave. The barbershop was a social hub in large cities and small towns alike as men congregated to gossip, do business, read the paper and get a professional shave. The shave was a multi-step process where barbers softened the beard with hot, moist towels and conditioned the skin with scented oils. They then used a porcelain shaving mug, badger hair brush and scented soap to create the lubricating lather needed for a close shave with a straight razor. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Plain porcelain shaving mugs are quite common today (after all, every man had one) and aren't particularly interesting. However, there is one, less common type of shaving mug that is quite interesting and offers a glimpse into the life of a tradesman in the 19th century. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The discovery of Germ Theory by Louis Pasteur in the 1860s led to the creation of sanitation laws that required a barber's clients to have their own shaving mugs which could not be shared with other patrons. Blank shaving mugs were imported from France and Germany and personalized by painting the man's name in elegant, fraktur calligraphy. Sometimes a scene was also painted on the mug which depicted the man's profession or trade. These occupational shaving mugs were displayed in the barber shop and served as a type of advertising. When someone went looking for a painter, carpenter or lawyer, they could stop by the barbershop and check out the shaving mugs to find the professional they needed. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Pictured is a example of an occupational shaving mug for house painter. Although detail is lacking, we can see wooden barrels which would contain linseed oil and white lead. The painter is standing on a scaffold which appears to be supported by ropes and pulleys. At his feet is a pail of paint. The other object is likely another pail which might hold his brushes or other things such as rags or a pumice stone for smoothing rough wood. Interesting for the historian and colorist is the entrance door. We can see that the door's rails and stiles are painted a lighter brown and the panels another, darker brown. </span></div>
Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-21705431251662727142016-05-30T12:47:00.000-05:002016-05-30T12:59:39.531-05:00When Something Just Doesn't Look Quite Right.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">T</span></b><span style="font-size: large;">his house is one of my favorites in my hometown of Spencer, Iowa. The ornament and detailing are classic examples of the Queen Anne. Note the beaded spindle work on the porch, including the frieze across the top, turned porch posts and large newels. This sort of elaborate spindle work is characteristic of the Eastlake sub-type of the Queen Anne. Other features commonly found on examples of the Eastlake are the incised, geometric patterns between the second story corner windows and on the porch gable and the baroque-style scrollwork under the front eave. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWt_VRBn-lo2FUo9icC44XycfzQj3Xk9YrbfhPYRx8_xgHyTzXGCxrav8StkH_75zn1O1q8gIAtTIxbpaCH0bDlqobRslYBFVURXuuR9JLDyJCqQ3O9XB7puSmPwalKWJorepkvVmxcww/s1600/Eastlake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWt_VRBn-lo2FUo9icC44XycfzQj3Xk9YrbfhPYRx8_xgHyTzXGCxrav8StkH_75zn1O1q8gIAtTIxbpaCH0bDlqobRslYBFVURXuuR9JLDyJCqQ3O9XB7puSmPwalKWJorepkvVmxcww/s320/Eastlake.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">A beautiful home for sure. But can you spot something that doesn't look quite right?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">However, when you look at this house as a whole, something does not look quite right. Here are a few things that stick out to me. On most buildings the rake angle of gables and the pitch of the roof are similar. That isn't the case here as the gable on the porch roof has a much steeper angle than the very low-pitched roof. Queen Anne houses are also known for their asymmetrical shape where bay windows, porches and wings are often capped with a complicated roof with hips, valleys, gables and dormers. This roof is symmetrical and does not follow the irregular shape of the house below. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">What is going on? This house is an example of how buildings can change through time. Sometime around 1910 this ca.1890 Queen Anne had a fire which destroyed the roof. Rather than rebuild the original roof, the owners built one typically found on Foursquare homes popular at that time. It is unclear whether this decision was a stylistic one or due to expense, since rebuilding the more complicated Queen Anne roof would have been more expensive. The results are not unpleasant, but do lead to a moment of pause as we try to reconcile the different parts into a stylistic whole. </span>Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-17759560538938641342016-05-01T13:42:00.001-05:002016-11-12T17:30:43.489-06:00Why choose Historic Design Consulting to help you select historic paint colors for your Victorian era home or business?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: medium;"><b style="font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif; text-align: center;">For more information about historic paint colors for your Victorian or Arts and Crafts era home or business, please visit the <a href="http://historic-design.com/" target="_blank">Historic Design Consulting Website</a> today!</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">T</span></b><span style="font-size: large;">here is an abundance of colorists, consultants and other professionals who specialize in Victorian-era paint colors and ornament for historic homes. This can make selecting a consultant who is right for you and your historic architecture difficult considering their varying levels of training, education and expertise. Historic Design's color consultants, however, have a unique background which includes academic training in architectural history and building conservation as well as hands-on experience in restoration which distinguishes us from others in the field. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Unlike colorists whose backgrounds are in decoration and design, Historic Design's consultants are grounded in a graduate level education in history and architectural history. Like any good historian, we start our research with primary sources and period color palettes rather than rely on modern authors and paint manufacturers to tell us how people painted their homes and businesses. We know which pigments painters used and when. We know how architectural styles and aesthetic ideals evolved during the 19th century and how color palettes reflected these changes. We know that colors used on an 1850s Italianate home might not be appropriate for a 1905 Colonial Revival or Shingle Style home. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKMrtSSnEhP96ebKOs8fUrbZcaxZL5CNlXGLxdDhndegVsKlxMROBBmQEZWDcVMsIjgp18Qx8IYoBdaWNFDdyVeYaWS4plOQch_CFnrZgQdym9NuwBk1HKTQoSBGOIHDy2B6_axfnx-gw/s1600/Lion+Brand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKMrtSSnEhP96ebKOs8fUrbZcaxZL5CNlXGLxdDhndegVsKlxMROBBmQEZWDcVMsIjgp18Qx8IYoBdaWNFDdyVeYaWS4plOQch_CFnrZgQdym9NuwBk1HKTQoSBGOIHDy2B6_axfnx-gw/s320/Lion+Brand.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">19th century card with paint chips from Lion Brand. Historic Design<br /> Consulting has a collection of primary sources like period color <br />samples which we use to select our period-correct color palettes.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">In short, we use the same materials and literature that painters used in the 19th century to write custom color reports for our clients.</span></span><br />
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<img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzqyFMAFjCb2wZL8KfaHyBcCDOjzacFsXm-DriqlYCNM4feaO4Cl2UnU3686MACVBkeZYrEFFzZbw_kQCk8oRF__QPvKys0bovO0BW_Uo1nZwmNwEMpEA1mKzfUWw3GBCmhtIFgpvRhPc/s320/Masury_edited-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="232" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">John W. Masury's 1881 book on house painting. Period literature offers<br />an instructive account of 19th century painting practice and theory. </span> </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Our expertise in architectural history is complimented by our training in building conservation. Building conservation is the discipline of preserving and restoring historic architecture. This includes a thorough knowledge of historic building materials and construction methods as well as the best practices to preserve them. 19th and early 20th buildings present challenges that are unique to historic architecture and a background in building conservation is necessary to preserve these building's distinguishing characteristics. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmg-6g7qycfSSr5aADQhVe0dulhaKh4s6y24i0r_in-wa1vC7Pnqozg2AgSNzJJavB49stqhzuVE4K9ZROYENE5WgLfN35JIBEfUiYcxsy2bUBc5IlXQHAWCZfsb4soTW7fiKGj0u8eGA/s1600/Cottage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmg-6g7qycfSSr5aADQhVe0dulhaKh4s6y24i0r_in-wa1vC7Pnqozg2AgSNzJJavB49stqhzuVE4K9ZROYENE5WgLfN35JIBEfUiYcxsy2bUBc5IlXQHAWCZfsb4soTW7fiKGj0u8eGA/s400/Cottage.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">Historic Design Consulting has a library of period photos which we use to determine correct<br />color placement. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Historic Design Consulting also benefits from hands-on experience in building maintenance and restoration. Although academic training is important, there is no substitute for actual experience in paint preparation, window restoration and building repair. Our expertise in modern maintenance methods as well as 19th century carpentry and house joinery using Civil War era tools and techniques makes Historic Design Consulting stand apart from other consultants and colorists. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">To get your own historic paint color report for your Victorian era house or business, visit our web page at <a href="http://www.historic-design.com/" target="_blank">www.historic-design.com</a> and click on the <a href="http://www.historic-design.com/paint-colors/" target="_blank">Paint Colors</a> button in the Our Services Menu.</span>Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-2126254632779221232016-04-09T20:59:00.000-05:002016-11-12T10:53:09.388-06:00The Second Empire Style<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">M</span></b><span style="font-size: large;">any 19</span><sup style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: large;">th</span></sup><span style="font-size: large;"> century building styles, including the Federal,
Greek Revival, Gothic Revival and Italianate, were inspired by historic
precedents and featured antique details such as lancet arches, brackets and
classical architraves. Around the middle
of the century, however, some Americans opted for a more “modern” style which
emulated fashionable designs current in Paris. This modern style, called the Second Empire,
proved to be especially popular in the Midwest and Northeast following the Civil War
and many examples remain in small towns and large cities alike.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One outstanding example is the Early Mansion, a 1875 house built by
D. Carr Early in Sac City, IA. A native
of Freeburg, OH, Early pre-empted a quarter section of land near Sac City in
1857 and prospered due to his investments in a local bank and railroad. He
built a grand home in the fashionable Second Empire style and had its
furnishings delivered via ox cart from Fort Dodge, IA, which was 60 miles distant across the open prairie. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEwzw9gVCVqyPnNTWcxnbKIr6t0_FeSe1ClU0eV-0pNOntnJBZn3CQjZIx3R0GBnnIRhTaPex_Gv82v0oONDGfNLy9Ku5UTlX8w_5PRK97HuQpJsXbRIsE3YsSIwlQA1NsRZVDHudIhM/s1600/Early+Mansion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEwzw9gVCVqyPnNTWcxnbKIr6t0_FeSe1ClU0eV-0pNOntnJBZn3CQjZIx3R0GBnnIRhTaPex_Gv82v0oONDGfNLy9Ku5UTlX8w_5PRK97HuQpJsXbRIsE3YsSIwlQA1NsRZVDHudIhM/s400/Early+Mansion.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i>The 1875 Early Mansion in Sac City, IA.</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> What distinguishes the Second Empire? First and foremost is the mansard roof. This dual-pitched roof design, named after
the 17<sup>th</sup> century French architect François Mansart (1598-1666),
allowed more efficient use of attic space.
The design proved so practical that many existing buildings with traditional
roofs were remodeled with the mansard.
High style examples of the Second Empire often feature towers, elaborate molded hoods over
windows and brackets along the cornice. Despite being
considered a “modern” style, its detailing (apart from the mansard roof)
closely resembles the picturesque Italianate style popular since the 1840s. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_cuX34oQzufvMHIB8ATExJXay4sjZES_FkyqR-TlsqjKe-Cm3F3AoK4eb0cXBX1u2F_pOUCa_Qif-1mlpEI8Y-ZCgPLTwSnIRQqrAcdTvbDvx4M0MAdEnLka9GNT8LXOpr6KUUCieL9Q/s1600/Early+Porch+Detail_edited-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_cuX34oQzufvMHIB8ATExJXay4sjZES_FkyqR-TlsqjKe-Cm3F3AoK4eb0cXBX1u2F_pOUCa_Qif-1mlpEI8Y-ZCgPLTwSnIRQqrAcdTvbDvx4M0MAdEnLka9GNT8LXOpr6KUUCieL9Q/s320/Early+Porch+Detail_edited-1.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i>Closeup showing the elaborate porch, brackets and window hoods.</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />Another fine Iowa example of the Second Empire style is the <a href="http://www.harkerhouse.com/">Harker House</a> in Storm Lake, IA. This cottage was built by 1875 by J. M. Russell for $500 dollars. Although smaller than the Early Mansion, the Harker House features many of the same design elements. The Harker House has been preserved as a house museum with many of its original furnishings thanks to efforts of Russell's granddaughter Nora Harker. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdGm7lzjMEEbhq868j1FSLJQIsJ4D8QmxnRa9-APGh84cS9JAkbu9x37CSUyomN-_vPDuL1EBCTrPq7jFHBnTdf-sgfLvKlbBtsdSqJcQLAcWppLKtvcfNeWz_ZrvZdTD1wGBoLhE4jIM/s1600/Harker+House.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdGm7lzjMEEbhq868j1FSLJQIsJ4D8QmxnRa9-APGh84cS9JAkbu9x37CSUyomN-_vPDuL1EBCTrPq7jFHBnTdf-sgfLvKlbBtsdSqJcQLAcWppLKtvcfNeWz_ZrvZdTD1wGBoLhE4jIM/s320/Harker+House.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i>The 1875 Harker House in Storm Lake, IA. </i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">You might ask "What exactly does the name Second Empire mean?" The Second Empire refers to the regime of Napoleon III who ruled France between 1852 and 1870 (the First Empire was, of course, the regime of his uncle Napoleon Bonaparte). One major project of Napoleon III was the modernization of medieval Paris into a modern capital city capable of supporting its burgeoning population. Napoleon III tasked Baron Haussmann with renovating the old city and, over the following decades, virtually all of medieval Paris was demolished and replaced with the grand boulevards and buildings we recognize today. The design for many of the buildings built in Haussmann's new Paris was based on Renaissance precedents and incorporated the Mansard roof. The </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 22.4px;">Exposition Universelle</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> in Paris in 1855 and the International Exhibition in London in 1867 popularized the new style and it was to become popular in style books in the United States.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">To visit the Harken House, check out their <a href="http://www.harkerhouse.com/">web page </a> or visit their <a href="https://www.facebook.com/harkerhouse">Facebook</a> page. </span></div>
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Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-40204053773495839612015-12-24T19:27:00.003-06:002016-11-12T10:52:17.482-06:00Maintenance Plans and Report for Historic Homes and Businesses<h3>
<b style="font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #990000; font-size: small;">For more information about maintenance plans for your Victorian or Arts and Crafts era home or business, please visit the <a href="http://historic-design.com/" target="_blank">Historic Design Consulting Website</a> today!</span></b></h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAXyLvGUZbEkUB506DM4hyphenhyphenh3V-SrlWuDCORSU2pGINg_SbSUvYe-_lNheKKAw1-w6PP8u6mO3mgspxJJV3B_1v3EnaMZqwmvlnWzbCKH4-EJRk69F5nl-ztKFKWzksvj_ZG2Cc68sDSo/s1600/753+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAXyLvGUZbEkUB506DM4hyphenhyphenh3V-SrlWuDCORSU2pGINg_SbSUvYe-_lNheKKAw1-w6PP8u6mO3mgspxJJV3B_1v3EnaMZqwmvlnWzbCKH4-EJRk69F5nl-ztKFKWzksvj_ZG2Cc68sDSo/s400/753+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Is your paint peeling or plaster cracked? We can help!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #373737; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large; line-height: 24.375px;">I</span><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: normal; line-height: 24.375px;">s your Victorian-era storefront or Queen Anne home looking a little worse for the wear?</span><span style="font-size: large; line-height: 24.375px;"> <span style="font-weight: normal;">You can take some comfort because help is one the way! H</span></span><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: normal; line-height: 24.375px;">istoric Design Consulting is very happy to announce a new service for owners of historic homes and businesses: Maintenance plans and reports. As historic buildings age they present special challenges to their owners. Exposure to the elements and years of wear and tear not only affect the appearance of a building but can also compromise its structural integrity. While some deterioration is inevitable over time, decay can accelerate if a building does not undergo regular maintenance. Deferred maintenance can lead to substantial problems while emergency repairs made during a crisis or critical failure can alter or irreparably damage historic materials. Inappropriate repairs and replacement are especially important in designated historic districts and down towns because the integrity of an historic buildings is an important factor its eligibility for many tax credits and grants. Furthermore, regular maintenance is far more cost effective than the replacement of deteriorated, historic features. </span></span></h4>
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<span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal; line-height: 24.375px;">Historic Design offers two maintenance services: Maintenance plans and maintenance reports. Maintenance plans are comprehensive documents describing the upkeep of an entire building and include care recommendations, a maintenance schedule and step-by-step instructions showing you what to do, how to do it and when. A maintenance report focuses on a particular issue with precise instructions. Typical issues include:</span></span></h4>
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<li><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 24.375px;">Care of windows and doors</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 24.375px;">Repair of cracking plaster on walls and ceilings</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 24.375px;">Deteriorated or dirty finishes on mill work and molding </span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 24.375px;">Recommendations for interior and exterior painting</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 24.375px;">Care of masonry, bricks and stonework</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 24.375px;">Refinishing front doors</span></span></li>
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<span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 24.375px;">For more information about Historic Design's maintenance plans and reports, please visit our website and <a href="http://www.historic-design.com/">www.historic-design.com</a>. If you have questions about a particular maintenance issue on your historic home or business, click on the "<a href="http://www.historic-design.com/contact-us-2/">Contact Us</a>" link to send us a message.</span></span></div>
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Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-10431977831619366682014-12-28T18:17:00.000-06:002015-12-25T10:02:10.126-06:00A Few More Recipes for the Victorian Home<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">I</span></b><span style="font-size: large;">n a previous </span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5747579207837149281#editor/target=post;postID=4598452546125783171;onPublishedMenu=allposts;onClosedMenu=allposts;postNum=2;src=postname" style="font-size: x-large;" target="_blank">post</a><span style="font-size: large;"> I transcribed a few helpful recipes for housekeeping and home maintenance found in a 19th century receipt book. I promised that some more recipes were soon to follow and here they are! These recipes and hints come from an older publication, </span><i style="font-size: x-large;">Mrs. Winslow's Domestic Receipt Book,</i><span style="font-size: large;"> published in 1869 by Jeremiah Curtis & Sons and John I. Brown & Sons of New York, NY.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7B7dmFwpscuMios3CA7YYpRyNY8AAyYWLhVVJtLNqDLuGDDBue49PdK8rGNOj887KN6Aw9EMIg-o-0RpfaYaErmV7YhNaTT6m19Dpd4ypbqg3CIO2-oIU8DvrYQkS1mUe1zE_yD7ulAg/s1600/Mrs.+Winslow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7B7dmFwpscuMios3CA7YYpRyNY8AAyYWLhVVJtLNqDLuGDDBue49PdK8rGNOj887KN6Aw9EMIg-o-0RpfaYaErmV7YhNaTT6m19Dpd4ypbqg3CIO2-oIU8DvrYQkS1mUe1zE_yD7ulAg/s1600/Mrs.+Winslow.jpg" width="210" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"> <i><u>To Remove Mortar or Paint from Window Glass:</u></i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Rub mortar spots with a stiff brush dipped in sharp, hot vinegar and paint-spots with camphene and sand.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<u style="font-style: italic;">To Purify a Sink or Drain:</u> Dissolve one-half pound copperas in two gallons of water. Pour in half this liquid one day, and the other half the next day.</span><br />
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<i><u>To Extract Oil and Grease Spots from Carpets</u></i>: If oil is spilled on a carpet, put on plenty of white flour, and do it as soon as possible, to prevent the oil spreading. If the oil is near a seam, but does not reach it, rip the seam, in order to stop it. Put flour on the floor under the oil spot. The next day brush up all the flour from the carpet and the floor with a stiff brush, and repeat the putting on of fresh flour. It will not need it the third time. To take the grease spots rub them with a bit of white flannel dipped in spirits of turpentine. If they show again, repeat the process. It is well to put paper under the carpet, when grease spots are on the floor, as no scouring will remove them entirely. </span><br />
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<i><u>To Keep Steel Knives from Rust</u></i>: Have them rubbed bright, and perfectly dry; have a soft rag, and rub each blade with dry wood ashes. Wrap them in thick brown paper, and place them in a dry closet. If taken care of in this way, they may be kept years free from rust. </span><br />
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And, for the hungry reader:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<i><u>Tomato Catsup</u></i>: Slice the tomatoes, and sprinkle with salt. Boil one hour, and strain through a course sieve. For every gallon, slice two large onions, add one-half spoonful of ginger, two spoonful cloves, two spoonful allspice, one teaspoon black pepper. Boil twenty minutes after these are added, and keep it in a covered jar.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<i><u>Tripe Curry</u></i>: Boil two pounds of tripe and cut it into strips; peel two large onions and cut them into square pieces, and put the onions into a stew pan with three tablespoons butter. Let it stew till brown, stirring well and mixing a tablespoon curry powder. Now add one pint of milk and cut up the tripe. Let all stew for an hour, skimming it well. Serve in a deep dish with boiled rice also to eat it with. An East India curry powder is made thus: -- Pound very fine in a mortar six ounces of coriander seed, three-fourths of an ounce of cayenne, one and one-half ounces of foenugreek seed, one ounce cummium seed, and three ounces tumeric. These articles can be bought at a druggists. Pound fine, sift through fine muslin, spread on a dish and dry before the fire for three hours , stirring frequently. Keep this in a bottle with a glass stopper.</span>Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-59408633552591969972014-10-12T12:13:00.000-05:002016-06-25T11:01:42.601-05:00Michigan House Detective<b style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">A</span></b><b style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: xx-large;"> </b><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">recent book by Fred Peterson titled <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Homes-Heartland-Farmhouses-Fesler-Lampert-Minnesota/dp/0816653534/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413128793&sr=8-1&keywords=farmhouse+architecture+history+midwest" target="_blank">Homes in the Heartland </a></i>describes the evolution of the balloon-frame farmhouse in the upper Midwest. Peterson notes one characteristic of many, first generation farmhouses: an eclectic nature where they were built in stages with several additions. </span><br />
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When settlers arrived in the Midwest one of their first priorities was building shelter. This might be a log cabin or a small, hastily built frame house. As the family established themselves in their new home, earned some money and had more children, the original home rapidly became insufficient. Some abandoned their <a href="http://oldhouseblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/wall-plaster-in-19th-century-log-cabin.html" target="_blank">old log house</a> and used it as a barn or shed. Others built additions onto their simple home and added fashionable Greek Revival or Victorian ornament to display the family's growing prosperity. Indeed, many Midwestern log cabins and first-generation claim shacks survive to this day cocooned within clapboard siding or surrounded by later additions.</span><br />
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This presents us with many opportunities to play "house detective" and try to determine the history of a building. Consider this example: A Greek Revival farmhouse built somewhere in Michigan. Take a look at the photo below and try to be a house detective yourself. How many additions do you see? Which section is the oldest? In what order were they built? See what you can figure out and then continue reading to see if you agree with me</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihm8jmoaG2gkTg8G6JIr36r4e9QYVmY1fOz7SHRVavWEeADk72uqsm47lUSNS-HgMjvaDKzQ0ttp-bVpiL_eNkGLNRlfJgDwaZPwUMZr7_8SnoQIPfnP9JPrLaHVv_Wt9RPTrVol_Y6ak/s1600/FarmHouseGreek.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihm8jmoaG2gkTg8G6JIr36r4e9QYVmY1fOz7SHRVavWEeADk72uqsm47lUSNS-HgMjvaDKzQ0ttp-bVpiL_eNkGLNRlfJgDwaZPwUMZr7_8SnoQIPfnP9JPrLaHVv_Wt9RPTrVol_Y6ak/s1600/FarmHouseGreek.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A ca. 1905 photograph showing a proud Michigan family and their Greek Revival farmhouse.</span></td></tr>
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I can identify three different sections: 1) the story-and-a-half, Greek Revival house on the right 2) A middle section with wide siding 3) The section to the left with narrow clapboard siding. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
Which section is the oldest? It it impossible to say with absolute certainty, but I believe the section to the right is the oldest. The <a href="http://oldhouseblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/greek-revival-americas-first-national.html" target="_blank">Greek Revival</a> was an early building style popular during the middle of the 19th century, suggesting it was likely built first around the time of the Civil War. The multi-paned, nine-over-six window glazing is characteristic of the style as are the the gable returns and frieze boards. This section most certainly has a centrally located, side entrance with a three or four room floor plan. The entrance door we see on the corner is certainly a later addition, as this would be a very unusual arrangement on a Greek Revival style home. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBsaV2nykz27lM2KppaI7v1DH7PX67lpGE1Afq28pmd8GiZlmN7up5hnnQRk0qslLXZYLl_2NdGUIVsnD0zbwIyCc5xAwdm3_DYX0OlsdCtQQbrix3BtN1vWhaEvjzo90k0_ykNUmAqr4/s1600/GreekWindow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img alt="" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBsaV2nykz27lM2KppaI7v1DH7PX67lpGE1Afq28pmd8GiZlmN7up5hnnQRk0qslLXZYLl_2NdGUIVsnD0zbwIyCc5xAwdm3_DYX0OlsdCtQQbrix3BtN1vWhaEvjzo90k0_ykNUmAqr4/s1600/GreekWindow.jpg" title="" width="113" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Nine-over-six window</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">glazing.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">
Most often the first addition to a simple farmhouse was a kitchen as it allowed the family to remove the heat from the wood stove and cooking odors from the main part of the house. These additions frequently included a small pantry or an additional bedroom. In this case the kitchen addition is the middle section. We find many Midwestern and Northeastern farmhouses configured this way and they are called an upright-and-wing or a gable-and-wing. Although some were built this way at the beginning many, like this example, were built this way in stages. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
How do I know that the house wasn't built this way originally? Because of the kitchen's wide siding. Although the builder added some Greek Revival style molding along the eaves with decorative posts on the wash porch, the wide siding suggests it was built at a different time. Furthermore, since there is bit of the wide siding on the story-and-a-half section, this suggests that original, narrow clapboards were removed when the kitchen addition was built. When the new entrance door was added at the right corner they used the new kitchen siding on the older section of the house. The original, centrally located entrance door became the interior door leading to the kitchen addition. Since the kitchen window is also multi-paned, this time six-over-six, I suspect the kitchen was added fairly early in the house's history. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
We are left with the section to the left. It is distinct from the kitchen addition due to the narrow, clapboard siding. Although the builder again continued the band of molding across the front and added gable returns, the plain, one-over-one window glazing suggests this could be a later addition, perhaps from the 1880s or later. Although it is possible that the window is a replacement of an original, the very simple casing around it suggests a later date. Another possibility is that is section was actually another, older building which was moved in and attached with newer style windows installed. Only a close examination could tell us for sure. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVtq2TkHbA2Pk13LNuT5sriHNGGAtkLriut3g6SHcgw4ZwVHvfGiR5BmtO0s_omOj1PBbwXvV9K3GTrqW_Y8PeuTLQ27G76gOltafIs93f2tDEFod_h8mxUADF8k1qcAyQsSkLSoIgjM/s1600/ModernWindow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVtq2TkHbA2Pk13LNuT5sriHNGGAtkLriut3g6SHcgw4ZwVHvfGiR5BmtO0s_omOj1PBbwXvV9K3GTrqW_Y8PeuTLQ27G76gOltafIs93f2tDEFod_h8mxUADF8k1qcAyQsSkLSoIgjM/s1600/ModernWindow.jpg" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One-over-one window sashes with</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">simple casing.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">
There are other ways to date additions, although they are difficult with photographs such as this. Square nails were commonly used until 1880s when wire nails (also called French nails) became prevalent. Another easy way is to look at the foundation. Early foundations were often made from rubble stone found in the fields. By examining the type of stones, blocks, brick and mortar you can often identify the order in which additions were built.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
So, how did I do? Do you agree with me? If not, post a comment and let me know!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
The next time you are driving about in the country, look around and see if you can identify an early farmhouse. Then try your hand at house detective and discover a bit of a family's history. </span>Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-72757388940412889942014-10-11T17:45:00.002-05:002016-11-12T10:39:59.857-06:00Ca. 1879 Prepared Paint Colors <div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; font-family: "trebuchet ms", verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.915px; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: #990000;">For more information about historic paint colors for your Victorian or Arts and Crafts era home or business, please visit the <a href="http://www.historic-design.com/" target="_blank">Historic Design Consulting webpage</a> today.</span></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAJH5z-a2qQi2w1CvT43RrZhi_ZpvKP9YuIDe1cuPkwpWiR2EEnz1V1AdyLO9fUxawEyzPXOs7dZqg743xwvp06MY7Fa2BqVS13MgSdVjhEOtotpy895lYv_CaPWikWiEI7KPWxr1EhI/s1600/Duzer+White+;ead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAJH5z-a2qQi2w1CvT43RrZhi_ZpvKP9YuIDe1cuPkwpWiR2EEnz1V1AdyLO9fUxawEyzPXOs7dZqg743xwvp06MY7Fa2BqVS13MgSdVjhEOtotpy895lYv_CaPWikWiEI7KPWxr1EhI/s1600/Duzer+White+;ead.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Graphic from a ca. 1879 Van Duzer catalog. </td></tr>
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<b style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">I</span></b><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">n a previous <a href="http://oldhouseblog.blogspot.com/2011/11/tin-cans-and-house-paint-in-19th.html" target="_blank">post</a> I described the importance of the paint can in the history of house painting. Rather than having to mix white lead, oil, pigments and driers in a bucket at the job site, painters and homeowners alike were able to buy cans of prepared and tinted paint. This not only made painting easier but it ensured the uniformity of color and quality.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
This makes us wonder what colors of prepared paint were available. A ca. 1879 catalog of the wholesaler S. R. Van Duzer of New York City has a comprehensive list of colors which could be purchased in one gallon cans. The list includes:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
Inside White Green Gray </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Outside White Flesh Color</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Yellow Stone Light Brown</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Free stone Flaxen Gray</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Stone Color French Gray</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Buff Color Light Drab</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Light Gray Dark Drab</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lavender Light Lead</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Silver Gray Dark Lead</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Pearl Color Fawn</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Yellow Gray French Ochre</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Flaxen Yellow Venetian Red </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Azure Blue Brown</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Pure Gray Peach Color</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Subdued Green Vermillion</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Red Gray Chrome Yellow</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Permanent Green Pea Green</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lilac Black</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Light Blue Dark Blue</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
This list of colors is actually quite large and varied. It includes the natural stone, buff, gray and brown colors advocated by Andrew Jackson Downing and popular in 1840s through the 1860s. It also has many of the greens, reds and other tertiary colors which were starting to becoming popular during the 1870s. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
Although it is nice to have a list of paint colors, the real trick is determining what each actually looked like. We can do this by looking at contemporary paint recipes, sample paint chips, advertising and even artistic representations such as paintings. </span>Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-45984525461257831712014-07-27T12:10:00.000-05:002015-12-25T10:08:47.041-06:00A few ideas for keeping your Victorian home tidy<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>D</b></span><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">uring the last half of the 19th century popular literature often focused on proper housekeeping and home maintenance. Pamphlets, magazines, almanacs and advertising emphasized the necessity of maintaining a neat and clean home where the family could thrive in an orderly environment. This sort of literature was particularly popular for rural families as it provided a link to trends in "scientific housekeeping" and household management current in large cities back East.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOgMCgVwRbFihyTioqUEo4tbk0Tgo61wUHF1lCeFl6jHrrQHE3f-rGyXZZ4e4H26o5CRMrJfmpDa3fl3HfGTDsnR5hwQ7A_MDwArgGe6qC97-CKmb_YQbv-k1_TRsYG41EnjApkVsinGg/s1600/Ransom's+Recipes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOgMCgVwRbFihyTioqUEo4tbk0Tgo61wUHF1lCeFl6jHrrQHE3f-rGyXZZ4e4H26o5CRMrJfmpDa3fl3HfGTDsnR5hwQ7A_MDwArgGe6qC97-CKmb_YQbv-k1_TRsYG41EnjApkVsinGg/s1600/Ransom's+Recipes.jpg" width="187" /></span></a><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">One example of this sort of literature is this 1890 receipt book distributed by the D. Ransom, Son & Co. of Buffalo, NY. These receipt books were a common sort of advertising that included both useful household recipes (the 19th century term for a recipe was receipt) as well as testimonials for the sponsor's products. The Ransom company produced a number of medicinal products, including the King of Blood, which they claimed cured cancers and tumors, and various "magnetic" balms and ointments for treating whooping cough, dysentery and bowel complaints. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
Although the medical advice found in this pamphlet is certainly quite suspect, there are a few recipes and tips that might interest someone studying Victorian architecture. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<b><i>Painting, Etc.</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i>
<i><u>House painting</u>. This should be done early in winter or spring when it cold and no dust flying. To mix paint for different coats: Outside, 1st, 2d and 3d coats, mix the lead to proper consistency with boiled oil, allowing time between to dry hard. Inside: 1st coat coat, mix lead and paint in mixture one-half boiled oil, one-half turpentine. 2d, one fourth oil, three fourths turpentine. 3d, mostly turpentine with a little oil to hold color. No dryer required. Inside paint must have light.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i>
<i><u>Best Painter's Size</u>: Heat raw oil in a pan till it emits a black smoke; set it on fire and, after burning a few minutes, cover the pan over to put out the blaze; pour the oil while warm into a bottle in which some pulverized read lead and litharge have been introduced. Stand the bottle in a warm place for two weeks, shaking often, It will then be ready to decant and bottle.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i>
<i><u>Black and Green Paint</u>: - Durable and Cheap - Black - Grind powdered charcoal in linseed oil with sufficient litharge as dryer; thin for use with well-boiled linseed oil. Green - Add yellow ochre to above and an excellent green is obtained, preferable to the bright green, for garden work, as it will not fade.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i>
<i><u>Red Wash for Bricks</u>: To remove the green that gathers on bricks, pour over them boiling water in which any vegetables, not greasy, have been boiled. Repeat for a few days, and green will disappear. For the red wash melt one ounce of glue in one gallon water, while hot add alum, size of egg, one-half pound Venetian red, one pound Spanish brown. Try it; if too light, add more red and brown. If too dark, water. </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i>
<i><u>Common Oil Varnish</u>: Three pounds resin, one-half gallon drying oil, melt together and add, when removed from fire, two quarts warm oil of turpentine.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
One of the challenging parts of reading these old receipts is the vocabulary. Here are some definitions of a few words:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<u>Litharge</u>: Lead carbonate, also commonly called white lead. Used in paint to make it opaque and works as a drier.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<u>Alum</u>: Aluminum and potassium sulfate. The same stuff we have in our spice cupboards today.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<u>Size</u>: Any substance such as glue used as a filler or glaze to help paint adhere to a surface.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<u>Drier</u>: A substance used to accelerate the hardening of oils used in paint.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<u>Red Lead</u>: A lead oxide used in paints intended for metal. Also has some drying qualities when mixed in oil. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />Here are a couple of other recipes I found in the pamphlet that I thought you might find rather tasty or convenient for someone not feeling well:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<i><u>Pickled Oysters</u>: Scald the oysters in their own liquor, boil one pint of vinegar; season with salt and pepper; pour over the oysters. Serve with celery.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i>
<i><u>Chicken Jelly</u>: Half a raw chicken, pounded with a mallet, bones and meat together, plenty of cold water to cover it well, about a quart. Heat slowly in a covered vessel, and let it simmer until the meat is white rags and the liquid reduced one-half. Strain and press, first through a colander, then through coarse cloth. Salt to taste, and pepper, if you think best; return to the fire, and simmer five minutes longer. Skim when cool. Give to the patient cold - just from the ice - with unleavened wafers. Keep on the ice. You can make into sandwiches by putting the jelly between thin slices of bread spread lightly with butter.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i>
<i><u>For Lye Poisoning</u>: Give freely of oil or warm lard and white of egg, followed by warm water and mustard, or ipecac.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i>
Check back again soon. More recipes to follow!!!</span>Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-39274854864436441892014-06-29T10:57:00.002-05:002015-12-25T10:09:35.447-06:00Victorian Trades: The Carpenter, House Joiner and Cabinet Maker.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I</b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">enjoy doing demonstrations for local historical organizations and civic groups where I show people how furniture and millwork were made during the 1800s. Visitors who watch my demonstrations usually use several different words to describe me, including carpenter, wood carver, wood worker or wood wright. Since I never want to sound argumentative, I usually
don’t correct them or suggest an alternative. However, in the 19<sup>th</sup>
century there were many specialized
craftsmen working with wood who made
particular things with their own special tools.
Each craftsman and craft had a name that identified them and their trade.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Three trades which were particularly important are carpenter,
joiner and cabinet maker. Depending on the event and what I’m making, I
usually describe myself as a cabinet maker or joiner. I’m never a carpenter. So, what is the difference? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><u><b>The Carpenter</b></u>: In his 1837 book <i>The panorama of professions and trades</i> Edward Hazen wrote: </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large; text-indent: 1.5pt;"><i>“It is the
business of the carpenter to cut out and frame large pieces of timber, and then
join them together, or fit them to brick or stone walls, to constitute them the
outlines or skeleton of buildings or parts of buildings.”</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">In short, a carpenter builds buildings. He frames the walls and roof using heavy
timbers and mortise and tenon joints or
dimensioned lumber and nails. He shingles,
builds scaffolds and trusses and sheaths the frame. He works on the jobsite using heavy tools
such as large augers, saws, wooden sledges and chisels. In Hazen's time this did mean timber framing, but later in the century this could have meant balloon framing or platform framing too. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG-yzBUo-XOth69QOWQV6S_Jpv3HZUyqVs98JXjXtAvFM1H-F_sEMhQP5ViDhtK03yvRZpZEitd7QjHUltl6oA0sFZFPhUH9TamKj8tUqzbFz4ZZENsNSgrMCJjichKXwxh5KHVxkb1hM/s1600/Barn+Raising.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG-yzBUo-XOth69QOWQV6S_Jpv3HZUyqVs98JXjXtAvFM1H-F_sEMhQP5ViDhtK03yvRZpZEitd7QjHUltl6oA0sFZFPhUH9TamKj8tUqzbFz4ZZENsNSgrMCJjichKXwxh5KHVxkb1hM/s1600/Barn+Raising.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">A crew of carpenters building a barn about 1895 using the timber <br />framing technique. Note the heavy, sawn timbers.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhag6F0wE-balUFG3Dr8-_yJ5UCdAbHJwRSuN9RBpp1PD-H2clR2YvMR6ffbiQF6KgzjXPywkwLFuuGLBgwUEucNFjnBTtd_jh2klj4rIpi1v-8Lg3kSsCDb425qARQiqM9twzIv1eqRcs/s1600/Carpenters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhag6F0wE-balUFG3Dr8-_yJ5UCdAbHJwRSuN9RBpp1PD-H2clR2YvMR6ffbiQF6KgzjXPywkwLFuuGLBgwUEucNFjnBTtd_jh2klj4rIpi1v-8Lg3kSsCDb425qARQiqM9twzIv1eqRcs/s1600/Carpenters.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Three men and a helper around 1910. They have been framing a house using <br />dimensioned lumber and nails. By this date they are likely using platform framing rather than balloon framing. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"> <b><u>The House Joiner</u></b>: Hazen wrote:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
</span><br />
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<i><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">“The
joiner executes the more minute parts of the wood-work of edifices, comprehending, among many things, the floors, window-frames, sashes, doors,
mantles &c.”</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">It was the joiner who made all the special, wooden bits
built into a building. He made the decorative
molding, window sash and trim, doors and casing, mantelpieces, built-ins such
as shelves and cabinets and all sorts of ornament like corbels and crests. He worked at a bench either on the jobsite or
in a shop using smaller tools like molding planes and carving gouges. Unlike the carpenter, the house joiner was also skilled at finishing his work with stains and varnish. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0uruR1h78GCV7qNfa-a0DXjEEewrY_o9CQDmewQ27xKR_Uh17oVzqnNyG18B4XipJtIjEwg1xg9P1wjJJBKofoNLyFUt5A6vyzrS5PLm5VmL3p9uD87wR6f62zfuR-YXYzIDWH1_dXrg/s1600/House+Carpenter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0uruR1h78GCV7qNfa-a0DXjEEewrY_o9CQDmewQ27xKR_Uh17oVzqnNyG18B4XipJtIjEwg1xg9P1wjJJBKofoNLyFUt5A6vyzrS5PLm5VmL3p9uD87wR6f62zfuR-YXYzIDWH1_dXrg/s1600/House+Carpenter.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">An engraving from <i>A panorama of professions and trades </i>by Edward Hazen (Philadelphia, 1837). Although purporting to show carpenters, this looks to be three house joiners working in their shop. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">There was overlap between the carpenter and house joiner as some of their work was quite similar. Indeed, many men did both jobs. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
Hazen noted that: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<i>"Carpentry and joinery, however, are so clearly allied to each other, that they are commonly practised by the same individual."</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
There were more opportunities for tradesmen to specialize in house joinery and develop their skills to the highest degree in larger cities with many high-style homes. Furthermore, the trades were regulated according to English guild traditions in large cities like Philadelphia or Boston during the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries. These inherited guild regulations required specialization and adhering to one's practiced trade, meaning joiners joined, carvers carved, turners turned (that is. used a lathe to make spindles) and carpenters built buildings. Later, as the demand for buildings grew and the country was flooded by trained immigrants, many of these regulations were ignored and tradesman worked wherever doing whatever they could to earn a living. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<u><b>The Cabinet Maker</b></u>: Hazen tell us:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
<i>"It is the business of the cabinet-maker to manufacture particular kinds of household furniture, such as tables, stands, bureaus, sideboards, desks, bookcases, sofas, bedsteads, &c., as well as a certain description of chairs made of mahogany and maple. Many of the operations of this business are similar to those of the carpenter and joiner, although they require to be conducted with greater nicety and exactness."</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i>
The cabinet maker makes furniture (sometimes called movables, or things that can be moved from room to room or house to house). The cabinet maker works at a bench in a shop and makes the finest work using smaller saws, chisels and gouges, moulding planes and other special tools. He often finishes and sometimes upholsters his work, although in larger cities these operations were frequently done by other tradesmen specializing in these crafts. </span><br />
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</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgoyNfNAcszM4Rzusxmp-rYNDcweuzxp56blzLrEwgent6-PdjlQaJmMWzg31jdK51QXiiFs3GpROvDkHDPN9aeGU-k7dpCN3KB9ozxD2PnWjZvmnlNzg4eKDlOJn35FFrKgkVwdV2bxU/s1600/Cabinet+Maker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgoyNfNAcszM4Rzusxmp-rYNDcweuzxp56blzLrEwgent6-PdjlQaJmMWzg31jdK51QXiiFs3GpROvDkHDPN9aeGU-k7dpCN3KB9ozxD2PnWjZvmnlNzg4eKDlOJn35FFrKgkVwdV2bxU/s1600/Cabinet+Maker.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Three cabinet makers working in their shop. Note the figured veneer <br />on the wardrobe's doors. The man standing next to the wardrobe appears<br /> to be polishing the finish with sharkskin or glasspaper. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Although the distinctions between these trades might seem clear, it can be a bit muddled depending upon when we are speaking. During the settlement period in North America there weren't cabinet makers, but only joiners. During the 1600s furniture was simpler and made using mortise and tenon joints. The joiner was the craftsman who made things using these basic techniques. To see the work of a modern-day joiner working at the Plimoth Plantation historic site using these ancient methods, take a look at Peter Follansbee's <a href="http://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">blog</a>.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
During the 18th century craftsmen began making stylish furniture using exotic woods such as mahogany, rosewood and satinwood along with figured veneers. They also began building casework (or furniture such as sideboards made from various box-like components ) using new joinery techniques such as dovetails. This distinguished the work of the new cabinet maker from the common joiner. In fact, the French work for cabinet maker is <i>ébéniste</i>, or a worker making high-style furniture using exotic ebony. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
Thereafter, the craftsman who made basic furniture and other pieces from pine and common wood species was called a joiner, the craftsman who made decorative pieces for buildings as well as doors and windows was called the house joiner, and the elite craftsman who made high-style furniture from mahogany and veneer was the cabinet maker. These distinctions were somewhat blurred in the United States (especially for the common joiner) where the absence of a strict guild system prevented craftsmen from protecting their distinct trades from encroachment of other wood workers. However, these distinctions are illustrative of some of the different types of wood workers and how their trades were practiced in the 19th century. </span>Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-37718490495805319912014-01-27T14:21:00.003-06:002015-12-25T10:10:15.997-06:00The Wall Street Journal and This New Old House<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">A</span></b><span style="font-size: large;">n article in Saturday’s Wall Street Journal by design
editor Dale Hrabi caught my attention.
Titled “</span><a href="http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424052702303802904579334594166856188?KEYWORDS=this+new+old+house&mg=reno64-wsj&url=http%3A%2F%2Fonline.wsj.com%2Farticle%2FSB10001424052702303802904579334594166856188.html%3FKEYWORDS%3Dthis%2Bnew%2Bold%2Bhouse" style="font-size: x-large;">This
New Old House</a><span style="font-size: large;">”, the article’s lead claims that:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">“Americans fed up
with over-sized, over-designed McMansions are finding saner shelter in
dwellings inspired by historic models on the outside – but full of walk-in
closets and modern kitchens within.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Whenever I read about trends in fashion, food or architecture I often wonder if they will turn out to be fads that will quickly pass
from memory. Anyone recall brass
fixtures and hardware, sconces, floral wallpaper borders or the crystal
chandelier in the foyer? It seems the mavens of style are often more interested
in expressing a<i> </i>desire for novelty rather
than an appreciation for long-held ideas about form, proportion, color or taste. While I believe I can appreciate
innovation, fashion and new cultural phenomena, I also appreciate those timeless
principles of design, aesthetics and proportion which distinguish the beautiful from the banal. It seems to me that the rush
to create things that are “now and wow” often neglects proven principles that can leads to questionable expressions in architecture, fashion and art. In domestic architecture this has resulted in the McMansion.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrojqIrFjgoZePWZaf6NI_VoeCGqlOzRVldgbrORnJxg133cY4Nih95VmPr3P_zmRBhNXAnfQYA0dS1mjwBVBwwL1rdspelPx36PrW-5kbV0L42o2nPOAf8RERIb7NFsseuVYG913QJrg/s1600/mcmansion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrojqIrFjgoZePWZaf6NI_VoeCGqlOzRVldgbrORnJxg133cY4Nih95VmPr3P_zmRBhNXAnfQYA0dS1mjwBVBwwL1rdspelPx36PrW-5kbV0L42o2nPOAf8RERIb7NFsseuVYG913QJrg/s1600/mcmansion.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The McMansion. Proportion? Taste? Style? Who cares!!! It is big and expensive!!!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">As I read this article I wondered if this interest in
traditional design might be another fleeting trend or if it represents a real
shift in the way architects design, builders build and people appreciate
their homes. The fact that this article
needed to be written suggests that principles of design remain poorly appreciated
and that this new trend might be an expression of nostalgia rather than a fundamental
change in the way people look at design. Hrabi quotes architectural designer Linda Connor
of Connor Homes in Middlebury, VT , who says:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">“People think it’s
all about molding and detailing, but the most important thing is scale and proportion. If you get that right the rest falls into
place.” </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">To which I say “Well, no kidding!!!!” I would hope this would be apparent to anyone who has thought about architecture and design. However, the fact that we have been building McMansions for years while remaining oblivious to such a fundamental
concept makes me question whether people are indeed interested traditional design or simply affected by another trend. If so, I
wonder if this trend will lead to a new understanding of design or will prove to be a passing fad for nostalgia which will result in pastiche rather than thoughtful design.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">I must admit I can be a bit of a cynic. However, I can be an optimistic too. Let's hope this trend does represent a new way of thinking about how we design our homes! </span></div>
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Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-81922907176952592972014-01-04T11:17:00.001-06:002015-12-25T10:11:18.804-06:00The I-House<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">W</span></b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">hen people think of 19<sup>th</sup> century houses they
often imagine grand Queen Anne homes with towers, elaborate
porches and oodles spindles, brackets and fretwork.
However, if you read through my
blog you might have noticed that there isn't much devoted to high-style Victorian homes. I have, however, written a fair bit about more common
houses. Perhaps this is because none of my ancestors lived in Victorian mansions with stylish appointments, cultured flower gardens and carriage houses. I suppose it makes some sense that I would have an affinity for the buildings that most American families called home. Today’s post is no exception as I
devote a few lines to one of America's most ubiquitous houses: The I-House.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The term “I-House” was coined by the cultural geographer
Fred Kniffen who studied vernacular and folk architecture across eastern
and southeastern United States. He used the
term I-House because examples were commonly found in Midwestern states such as Iowa, Illinois
and Indiana (thus the “I” in I-House) although the house evolved from earlier forms found along the eastern seaboard. These folk precedents, which had evolved from even earlier English folk forms such as the Hall-and-Parlor and Center Passage, provided the template for many, early house types in colonial and 19th century America such as the Salt Box and Cape Cod. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Hall-and Parlor houses were built early in the colonies and were direct descendents of English folk houses. They were rectangular in shape, two rooms wide and one room deep with a gabled roof. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCeNGeL80vlAYT2fJbVdC63Wrtsl_yqz79Nisusba9BVTiLNZxWh1FMvifyW1nyl-AeLokotrQQZKJvGfmSDGE8VBPR3GS9w3ioLpXRmn6iRdXM_yuJxG7IrZcNGRjQq8uGe_FjWxvrqM/s1600/Hall-and-Parlor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCeNGeL80vlAYT2fJbVdC63Wrtsl_yqz79Nisusba9BVTiLNZxWh1FMvifyW1nyl-AeLokotrQQZKJvGfmSDGE8VBPR3GS9w3ioLpXRmn6iRdXM_yuJxG7IrZcNGRjQq8uGe_FjWxvrqM/s400/Hall-and-Parlor.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The Hall-and Parlor floorplan.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The Center Passage form appeared later in the 18th century and was an evolved form of the earlier Hall-and-Parlor. Instead of the simple two-room footprint of the Hall-and-Parlor, the Center Passage had its two rooms separated by a central passage and stair. This symmetrical footprint was especially suitable for the classical designs of the <a href="http://oldhouseblog.blogspot.com/2010/02/berkeley-plantation.html" target="_blank">Georgian Style</a> commonly built during the last half of the 18th century. This symmetrical footprint also provided the template for the I-House which appeared during the 19th century in New England, Mid Atlantic and the Tidewater south.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibAWcosSVJBupeqSPJ81r7XfX97yjDFLM_VOlfg6PoB3CHYigcKzOAk_adkPNd_nMO3vGmnLOoTWMuTpntld7omVvkHtTI00GkAvOXrtJAt6C-CrRSpU0SWvm4iMMK_Z_JEfyPwf1nKsA/s1600/Center+Passage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibAWcosSVJBupeqSPJ81r7XfX97yjDFLM_VOlfg6PoB3CHYigcKzOAk_adkPNd_nMO3vGmnLOoTWMuTpntld7omVvkHtTI00GkAvOXrtJAt6C-CrRSpU0SWvm4iMMK_Z_JEfyPwf1nKsA/s400/Center+Passage.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The Center Passage floorplan.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The arrival of railroads and the influx of immigrants spread the I-House form into the old Northwest and across Mississippi Valley. The design was a favorite form for farmers and town dwellers alike. The developed form featured side gables, was two rooms in width, one room in depth and two stories in height. The facade is usually symmetrical although later additions such as kitchens were very common. <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19.1875px;"> Later, when railroads made the distribution of factory-made millwork possible, homeowners often added fashionable details such as brackets, scrolls and molding to the basic form. </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">I found this example of an I-House along the old Dodd Road between Kasota and Mankato, Minnesota. Sometimes the most complete examples of historic building types with the best integrity are abandoned. When houses are occupied people make changes so that it better suits modern lifestyles and usage. This means I spend quite a bit of time skulking about on side roads looking for derelict buildings such as this ca. 1875 house. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Although covered by vines and brush you can easily see the characteristic I-House form. Though the house has been abandoned for some time it remains in good condition, retaining a few of its original 6/6 windows. This example is quite plain with flat door and window casing and clapboard siding. The foundation is native Kasota limestone. Although it might not look like much, this is a representative example of a house type that sheltered many families through the hot midwestern summers and frigid winters. </span><br />
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The next time you are out for a drive in the countryside, stop for a bit and look around. I would bet you too will find a few examples of the I-House.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmRjDrIP4clLPtt0BOignCPs1AkBVOkow9lp8vrLar0Afa60n8Cxry2vZ4rHBJjUqpzoGd45F1yHpRI1fondnSuNGXba49w4vYMR6tVUn4NKbhH31oRLpJGPGMvzVtcnGbfg1fWT8HlEQ/s1600/I+House+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmRjDrIP4clLPtt0BOignCPs1AkBVOkow9lp8vrLar0Afa60n8Cxry2vZ4rHBJjUqpzoGd45F1yHpRI1fondnSuNGXba49w4vYMR6tVUn4NKbhH31oRLpJGPGMvzVtcnGbfg1fWT8HlEQ/s400/I+House+Front.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">A Minnesota example of the I-House from the front.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVgYLIrP1ZA_PJ1aLX3TYMTyuuZiE-xfUbkO6tqsvODJ4lKgwKVEYL_FvfNttpKwL_lqH_e82Zk24G552XGI8LIctqaJ0Kla0vsaDIdZ1piQWqDT3zwAiDLUU4QV-mB2-rblYHtK2gMpg/s1600/I+House+Front+Side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVgYLIrP1ZA_PJ1aLX3TYMTyuuZiE-xfUbkO6tqsvODJ4lKgwKVEYL_FvfNttpKwL_lqH_e82Zk24G552XGI8LIctqaJ0Kla0vsaDIdZ1piQWqDT3zwAiDLUU4QV-mB2-rblYHtK2gMpg/s400/I+House+Front+Side.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Another view.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgURbbhoLoEzPRm1T1632RLdWlWAXQI84QPRCbN3wVQufvJuuVWGsyXqK3FDgRMnoWBZrXp7X2rFGg-kBDiaE42N0SBYf9u3X0y-g7hztzoh5I7Df7LsTb_avbWHjP_HZBjy6jw0k9BEIo/s1600/I+House+Side+Rear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgURbbhoLoEzPRm1T1632RLdWlWAXQI84QPRCbN3wVQufvJuuVWGsyXqK3FDgRMnoWBZrXp7X2rFGg-kBDiaE42N0SBYf9u3X0y-g7hztzoh5I7Df7LsTb_avbWHjP_HZBjy6jw0k9BEIo/s400/I+House+Side+Rear.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">View showing the side and rear, including the kitchen addition.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuulnrMcLmZ4a1iF-pYS96-Qf21Qyau7BnBvBTUz13_ya6Yr2BI5aaxHnngZ-qFZb9xp2T9zquYm1gIjHFBl1Ln6gLXGYmU2g4zvzkog30C1FkxTwsGt1sJQxMjaREsKwtBWO67V1MTs/s1600/I+House+Window.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuulnrMcLmZ4a1iF-pYS96-Qf21Qyau7BnBvBTUz13_ya6Yr2BI5aaxHnngZ-qFZb9xp2T9zquYm1gIjHFBl1Ln6gLXGYmU2g4zvzkog30C1FkxTwsGt1sJQxMjaREsKwtBWO67V1MTs/s400/I+House+Window.jpg" width="300" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">One of the original 6 over 6 sash windows.</span></td></tr>
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Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-40117205799921398052013-10-12T20:21:00.000-05:002015-12-25T10:11:42.811-06:00A Diamond in the Rough<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">F</span></b><span style="font-size: large;">or several years I have been driving by a simple little house near St. Peter, MN just across the Minnesota River. It always catches my attention and I have wondered how old it is, who built it, who lived there and how has it survived. It is a small, simple building that looks to be a typical example of the first generation of houses built during the settlement era in the upper Midwest. Although houses of this sort used to exist by the thousands in Minnesota, very few have survived unaltered. This Fall I finally got my courage up and decided I would introduce myself to the owner. Adjacent to the old house is </span><a href="http://www.nelsonimports.com/" style="font-size: x-large;" target="_blank">Nelson Imports</a><span style="font-size: large;">, an auto repair shop specializing in Mercedes. I introduces myself to the owner Josh Nelson who graciously showed me his interesting building.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQszHzyRpkVJCZCfjqvU1g08fUqBoE1tafQ507wse6onLEB-U_4YK22lfSOL9WA14SmX7s4HQX6IAaZxLY2n_B8OVqWRlrCqNq_Afkt89Ui1SYx0Cv_b_IMkVGf72rXOVEUhkxKuGSHs/s1600/Sept+4+015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img alt="" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQszHzyRpkVJCZCfjqvU1g08fUqBoE1tafQ507wse6onLEB-U_4YK22lfSOL9WA14SmX7s4HQX6IAaZxLY2n_B8OVqWRlrCqNq_Afkt89Ui1SYx0Cv_b_IMkVGf72rXOVEUhkxKuGSHs/s320/Sept+4+015.JPG" title="The mystery house near St. Peter, MN." width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The mystery house near St. Peter, MN. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">
As you can see there isn't much to the house. It is in good condition and hasn't been cut up or altered to the point that the original structure can't be easily identified. The earliest part of the house is the section on the right with the front-facing gable. The addition on the left was added a few years later, most likely as the family grew and separate kitchen space was needed. Josh knew that the house had been lived in up into the early 1960s and that it has been vacant ever since. He also had heard that it had been used as the first railroad depot in St. Peter. Since I am fascinated by vernacular architecture like this humble little home and the stories of the people who lived in it, I couldn't help but offer to research the building's history.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
Stay posted through the Fall as I start studying this little gem and learn all about its story! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
Plus, if your C Class needs brakes or the "check engine" light keeps coming on, stop by and see Josh at <a href="http://www.nelsonimports.com/" target="_blank">Nelson Imports</a> in St. Peter and he will be sure to take good care of you and your Mercedes. </span>Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-35659458695671979932013-08-25T10:58:00.000-05:002016-11-12T10:51:29.294-06:00Painted Floors in the Victorian Home<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIf7-eLVAlayGriutEciFvCoPTVJ_pm2U-GYRk6DfsF0NRGmEe9J7qtDaSWcxUO3f4eC3fAsgidUbInj39CyozyZ_Pd5NMdtPdeP2mtt18UKNBdD7RrSx1JcaBkwMtENrGL9FYlkIK4k/s1600/FloorCard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIf7-eLVAlayGriutEciFvCoPTVJ_pm2U-GYRk6DfsF0NRGmEe9J7qtDaSWcxUO3f4eC3fAsgidUbInj39CyozyZ_Pd5NMdtPdeP2mtt18UKNBdD7RrSx1JcaBkwMtENrGL9FYlkIK4k/s400/FloorCard.jpg" width="137" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">Late 19th century card of sample </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">floor colors from the New England </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">Paint Company</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #990000; font-size: small;">For more information about historic paint colors for your Victorian or Arts and Crafts era home or business, please visit the <a href="http://www.historic-design.com/" target="_blank">Historic Design Consulting webpage</a> today.</span></h2>
<b style="font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">P</span></b><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">ainted floors were common in American homes throughout the 19th century. Durable paints would seal soft pine flooring making them less liable to stain and easier to clean. An 1850 edition of Miss Leslie's<i> Lady's House Book </i>recommends cleaning heavily soiled, common pine floors using:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> "an old tin pan with some gray sand in it; and after soaping the brush, rub on it some sand also."</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Abrasive sand or pumice could remove stains but would also erode the soft, unpainted floor boards. Since painted and sealed floors would not absorb grease or stains, they could be easily cleaned by wiping or gently brushing with warm soapy water. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />
Commercial, ready-made floor paints were made durable and glossy by the addition of resins that were otherwise used to make varnishes. These resins, including copal and colophony, were soluble in boiled linseed oil and turpentine and were added to oil paint to provided the hard, glossy coat. Painters and homeowners also used regular, home-mixed oil paint and then applied a protective topcoat of varnish. Alvin Wood Chase's 1890 receipt book (or recipe book as we say today)<i> </i><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 115%;"><i>Dr. Chase's third, last and complete receipt
book and household physician</i> suggests:</span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">
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</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">"Paint
the whole floor with a mixture of much boiled oil and little ochre for the
first coat: then after it is well dried, give two more coats of much ochre and
little oil; and finally finish with a coat of first-rate copal varnish. It is extremely durable for floors, windows,
or outside, such as verandas, porticoes and the like."</span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfqNjINRgcr1qakXfzaQhc5GR_xOsbqJ_Qoughnx9u5JD4chJylfwwHZI1YvhPckMyiOSL16VD7HVaUeqt-zV2NUKCviviJ2Jlkn2T4ol2P0Y-INNrpbz3wQNw_HryF50nrB9fTj5Ex4Q/s1600/Floor+Gray.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfqNjINRgcr1qakXfzaQhc5GR_xOsbqJ_Qoughnx9u5JD4chJylfwwHZI1YvhPckMyiOSL16VD7HVaUeqt-zV2NUKCviviJ2Jlkn2T4ol2P0Y-INNrpbz3wQNw_HryF50nrB9fTj5Ex4Q/s200/Floor+Gray.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">Painted bedroom floors from the 1855 <br />Folsom House, Taylor's Falls, MN.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The <a href="http://sites.mnhs.org/historic-sites/folsom-house" target="_blank">Folsom House</a>, an 1855 Greek Revival home in Taylor's Falls, MN, an early Minnesota lumbering town, features floors painted in a common, blue-gray and a yellow ochre like that mentioned in Chase's recipe above. </span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilje89tSQm6aTd1TmaqGaTOCmyMQenOBiAG-1G9AH3Ke0DMCom2kYn4sQ6is7u_8rdlVpPPMFR6QnqJ7fMemFucnGDnKRwVgvST4lMJy2lD1IWbhhMkhghwvU9Wd6wLW-akgN0UaqzLWc/s1600/Floor+Closeup.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilje89tSQm6aTd1TmaqGaTOCmyMQenOBiAG-1G9AH3Ke0DMCom2kYn4sQ6is7u_8rdlVpPPMFR6QnqJ7fMemFucnGDnKRwVgvST4lMJy2lD1IWbhhMkhghwvU9Wd6wLW-akgN0UaqzLWc/s200/Floor+Closeup.JPG" width="168" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">Close-up of Folsom House floor<br />stenciling.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Stenciling was a popular way to decorate painted floors to make them resemble expensive carpets or marble. Stenciled patterns often featured repeating floral or geometric patterns and sometimes included contrasting borders around walls which mimicked carpet borders. Stencils were made from tin sheets which had designs cut out with punches or shears. The stencils were laid on the floor and the paint brushed on leaving the painted pattern on the floor. The process was repeated until the floor was covered with the pattern. The Folsom House has a few remnants of a repeating, bottle green floral design at the top of the stairway. Examples of floor stenciling are rather uncommon today as they were often obliterated by foot traffic, removed when painted floors went out of fashion or destroyed when linoleum or carpet was installed. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">For questions or help with your own home's interior paint colors, ornament and period decorating, please visit the Historic Design Consulting <a href="http://www.historic-design.com/">Home Page</a> for more information.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The <a href="http://sites.mnhs.org/historic-sites/folsom-house" target="_blank">Folsom House</a> is located in Taylor's Falls, MN (about 40 minutes northeast of the Twin Cities Metro) and can be visited between Memorial Day weekend and September, Friday through Sunday between 1 and 4 and on holidays between 1 and 4.</span></div>
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Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-65704230589622235162013-01-02T12:37:00.004-06:002017-01-18T14:11:16.524-06:00 Historic Paint Colors for the Victorian Home: Part Two<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><b>For more information about historic paint colors your your Victorian or Arts and Crafts era home, please visit the <a href="http://www.historic-design.com/" target="_blank">Historic Design Consulting website</a> today! </b></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="color: #0b5394; font-size: medium;">To view Part One of the Victorian Paint Colors post, click <a href="http://oldhouseblog.blogspot.com/2010/12/historic-paint-colors-for-victorian.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</span></b></div>
<b style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">I</span></b><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">n a previous<b> <a href="http://oldhouseblog.blogspot.com/2010/12/historic-paint-colors-for-victorian.html" target="_blank">post</a></b> I described my process for selecting historic
paint colors for 19<sup>th</sup> century homes and businesses. Rather than relying on so-called “Victorian”
color collections from modern paint manufacturers such as Behr or
Sherwin-Williams, I use period color swatches.
This way I can be sure to consider the same colors homeowners did
130 years ago and offer my customers a truly authentic color palette. In addition I also study the way house paints were mixed and tinted to understand better how the original colors appeared </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br />What is the process for selecting colors palettes for older homes? First,
I read what designers and architects wrote about house colors and fashion in the 19<sup>th</sup>
century. Andrew Jackson Downing, Samuel
Sloan and many others wrote in detail about selecting paint colors and how
they thought a paint scheme should be arranged. By working my way through these primary
sources I can get a good idea how Victorian homeowners and designers picked their color palettes.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Second, I need to know how paint was mixed. When I read Downing's descriptions of paint colors such as drab or fawn it is essential to know which pigments were used so I can
imagine how the paint might have looked. Also, since painters tended to be a conservative
lot who mixed paints using familiar recipes, I can look
at later color swatches to get some idea of older paint colors. Learning about these paint recipes and
pigments is a reliable way to reconstruct an early color palette. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">19th century paint was mixed using four basic ingredients: linseed oil; white lead; turpentine and pigments. Many of the pigments used before 1875 were earth pigments, or pigments mined or refined from soil. In other words, earth pigments are pretty colored dirt.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
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<i><b><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Here are a few examples of pigments that were commonly used in the 19th century.</span></b></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLA0wcoAZ0vT4r1KYdomzxk_GZSVJ_eBAxHn8eh4X6c3ykooSP6K7aUhpOwWentyQTOaYsY8LOJRyqnC2ijdrrbP35zA32amb-mEIMxqC0s6PVRTrj5P3Hb_qbtN-GZyBp9XndiUBB9g/s1600/Indian+Red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLA0wcoAZ0vT4r1KYdomzxk_GZSVJ_eBAxHn8eh4X6c3ykooSP6K7aUhpOwWentyQTOaYsY8LOJRyqnC2ijdrrbP35zA32amb-mEIMxqC0s6PVRTrj5P3Hb_qbtN-GZyBp9XndiUBB9g/s200/Indian+Red.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Indian Red is ferric oxide that was originally mined on the Indian Subcontinent (thus its name). Other deposits of ferric oxide have been discovered all over the world and several have names, including English Red or Venetian Red, that indicate the place of their origin. Since this pigment was relatively cheap, barns and industrial buildings were frequently painted with paint containing Indian Red. </span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyGNb82UR-mYpjFpGrHRnDXtBV8wVsfiL8XX43o5p0QWke8dlDlXs2zcA2_hv7r45dHxlsUO5vxNt4272uY37-L0fTDOq-_uk0mCexMj_5bLYgTEgElzQYoNUBmVDE9QPEih_E7ISMyiU/s1600/Raw+Umber.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyGNb82UR-mYpjFpGrHRnDXtBV8wVsfiL8XX43o5p0QWke8dlDlXs2zcA2_hv7r45dHxlsUO5vxNt4272uY37-L0fTDOq-_uk0mCexMj_5bLYgTEgElzQYoNUBmVDE9QPEih_E7ISMyiU/s200/Raw+Umber.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i>Raw Umber is also named after its place of origin: Umbria, Italy. It is a medium brown pigment refined from <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19.200000762939453px;">clay containing ferric oxide and manganese. Raw Umber was</span> widely used in the 19th century.</i> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbI-Ij2IWpwzgZRcNcYkXns4cwb-vMVQ7PZ75PiID4qdfwUgbwTG4U9TvAodBH9jF0EIOEecwvE3Xej6Cgp5yblIhIWc8etg4jLxmZbz2_jcU1UdlBTH3gk6X372aww1RaHElbNOXdvao/s1600/Burnt+Umber.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbI-Ij2IWpwzgZRcNcYkXns4cwb-vMVQ7PZ75PiID4qdfwUgbwTG4U9TvAodBH9jF0EIOEecwvE3Xej6Cgp5yblIhIWc8etg4jLxmZbz2_jcU1UdlBTH3gk6X372aww1RaHElbNOXdvao/s200/Burnt+Umber.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> Pigments could be baked in ovens to drive out water and cause them to darken. Compare this Burnt Umber sample to the Raw Umber sample above.</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuemYwkMN4fZKSSbN-NZRbejEBh6WEllYvTJ-Nmgk5bKLzNaKhRiWvELmADPFHuZYNekezBLlER5BTlLgA3gRaesRSgvqlo4fPvlN-2gKWMN0N4c7EeT8_S7t0wbFnrI5MhLEVcW5SC4/s1600/Burnt+Sienna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuemYwkMN4fZKSSbN-NZRbejEBh6WEllYvTJ-Nmgk5bKLzNaKhRiWvELmADPFHuZYNekezBLlER5BTlLgA3gRaesRSgvqlo4fPvlN-2gKWMN0N4c7EeT8_S7t0wbFnrI5MhLEVcW5SC4/s200/Burnt+Sienna.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Burnt Sienna is a limonate clay containing ferric oxide that was originally mined around the city of Sienna in Tuscany, Italy. </span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Other pigments, such as Prussian Blue and Chrome Green, were commonly used. Unlike earth pigments, these pigments were produced in factories. Although found in many paint recipes, several of these manufactured pigments were fugitive, meaning they tended to fade or discolor in sunlight. This is why few 19th century houses were painted bright blue or purple since these paint recipes usually contained fugitive Prussian Blue. </span><br />
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Earth pigments proved to be durable and were widely used until the 1870s when they began to be replaced by brighter, more vibrant colors made from the by-products of the petroleum industry. This is why the bright, saturated colors commonly used in the early 1900s on Queen Anne homes look out of place on earlier Italianate and Gothic Revival examples. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #073763; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i>For information about color consults for your historic home, visit the<a href="http://historic-design.com/" target="_blank"> Historic Design Consulting </a>website and click on the <a href="http://www.historic-design.com/paint-colors/" target="_blank">House Colors</a> button.</i></span></div>
Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-35530241314331679622012-10-01T19:50:00.000-05:002015-12-25T10:15:31.734-06:00Making a 19th Century Door: Or, Why do Modern Replacement Doors Look so Strange on 19th Century Homes<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>T</b></span></span><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">here are many differences between woodworking in today's machine age and the 19th century. Contemporary carpenters and furniture makers rely on drawings, dimensions, and precise measurements to help them plan and build things. Before the Industrial Revolution, however, things were very different. 19th century house joiners certainly did rely on pattern books, but these books didn't contain measured plans with precise dimensions for Federal or Greek Revival doors, windows and moldings. Instead, these pattern books had drawings of various elements with proportions. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
What do I mean by this? Lets look at a 1797 plan book by Asher Benjamin and see. If you wanted to build an interior door today you would buy a set of measured drawings for a 2/8, 2/10 or 3/0 door which would give you the standardized width of the stiles, bottom, top and lock rails, dimensions for the molding, etc. If you look below at a plate from Benjamin's 18th century plan book, you will see that the drawings are far simpler.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeOCxarT9YU1xxLmmm-vH1gvzJlQaRoVd0UiheEfNqpQ7T0QRPp15vyOgW4LHnzNFoco6045DryP-XWY1NucybT1h0qU3SnRCXy6KoOgdn7pW4sEl6iwKaFQJ0HUXj3-6Q3TjJz608srw/s1600/Doors.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeOCxarT9YU1xxLmmm-vH1gvzJlQaRoVd0UiheEfNqpQ7T0QRPp15vyOgW4LHnzNFoco6045DryP-XWY1NucybT1h0qU3SnRCXy6KoOgdn7pW4sEl6iwKaFQJ0HUXj3-6Q3TjJz608srw/s400/Doors.jpg" width="252" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">Asher Benjamin, <i>The Country Builder's Assistant</i><br />(1797) plate 12.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The first thing to notice is the series of 9 marks beneath each door. Rather than dimensions, Benjamin instructs the joiner to divide the width of the door opening into 9 equal parts or steps of a divider. If you are building a 3/0 door, which is 36 inches in width (as in the example Benjamin gives here), you would have 9 parts or steps of 4 inches each. On the 4-panel door each stile, muntin and top rail is one part wide (or 4 inches), the bottom rail is 1 1/2 part wide (6 inches) and the lock rail is 2 1/2 parts wide (10 inches). </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br />
The genius of this approach is its simplicity and flexibility. If your door opening is an odd size like 2/9, 2/11 or 3/2 (as is common on older homes), you simply step off 9 parts on the door opening's width with a pair of dividers and there you have your base measurement. You then use the dividers to lay out the width of the stiles (1 divider step or part), the dimension of the bottom rail (1 1/2 divider step) and so on until you have your stock ready to cut and plane. Regardless of how wide or narrow the door, the proportions of each component to the entire door are exactly the same. </span><br />
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What's better yet is you don't even need a ruler or to know the dimension of the opening. You simply mark the width of the opening on a scrap piece of wood or story stick, use your dividers to divide it into 9 parts and start laying out your door. The idea of not knowing or needing the dimension of a door is hard for modern tradesmen to wrap their heads around, but in the 18th and 19th century this was standard procedure. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj-2S8IuR-5NJ7EMQaI9z9Sxv9-TQ0-Zgs2UCJOankoodKHVKK6-CPMyo2CxKGtCsGYr2U_XcKiTl2mz3q6A47FUGiN7esCNOZXIMvntFX28NXkTyyaOFMklNaHaPEwRiL0yEKkuUfZek/s1600/Greek+Door.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj-2S8IuR-5NJ7EMQaI9z9Sxv9-TQ0-Zgs2UCJOankoodKHVKK6-CPMyo2CxKGtCsGYr2U_XcKiTl2mz3q6A47FUGiN7esCNOZXIMvntFX28NXkTyyaOFMklNaHaPEwRiL0yEKkuUfZek/s320/Greek+Door.jpg" width="212" /></span></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Why is this important? These differences in approach explain why modern replacement doors often look so odd in older homes. In an age where everything is standardized (e.g. the width of door stiles and rails), when modern shops build odd-sized doors for older homes the proportions of the door parts are usually off. They just don't know the proportions governing the dimensions of the door's various parts and don't adjust their designs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Whenever I visit an historic home I take careful measurements of doors, windows, molding and other millwork and determine the proportions of each piece. Then, if I make a hand-made door for a Greek Revival home, I can check the measurements and proportions for doors in similar homes and use them to make the replacement. Not only does my replacement door have appropriate tool marks and construction for the 19th century, its proportions, molding and shape are also correct.</span></div>
Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5747579207837149281.post-29388022878826777612012-03-03T15:11:00.001-06:002015-12-25T10:16:36.556-06:00Wall Plaster in a 19th Century Log Cabin<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-large; line-height: 115%;"><b>W</b></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">hen we think about the American frontier, images of isolation, privation and strenuous labor can come to mind. </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">Life on the frontier certainly was difficult and dangerous. </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">A homesteader’s first year was often a frantic race to establish his family before the winter’s first snow began to fall. </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">The first job was to cut timber to clear land for planting crops and provide logs for building a cabin. </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">The homesteader's wife and children might stay with a neighbor or even remain back east while their new house was being built and crops and garden planted.</span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> Conditions in their new log home were primitive as most cabins had only dirt floors, almost no furniture and only a small, cast iron stove for heat and cooking. </span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">However, once established in their new home pioneer families were eager to improve their cabins</span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> with siding, wooden floors, paint and plaster.</span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> Even on the</span><span style="line-height: 20px;"> </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">frontier people did their best to follow the latest fashions and keep up with the Joneses.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">German immigrants Wilhelm and Sophia Ney homesteaded along the Minnesota River just east of Henderson, MN in the 1850s. Wilhelm built a large 22’x 32’ cabin from maple and basswood logs in 1855 which served as the family's home until he built a larger house out of the local, cream colored Chaska brick. The old cabin was cocooned in board and batten siding and then converted into a horse barn after the family left. However, despite being used to stable horses for many decades, remnants of the original daubing and lath and lime plaster have survived on the rear wall.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi84OOVwIW6FLj5YGqww9VS6_0BZuJ34bHHJMR50Iu2DISOpVwv4n-6dYpXLt5W6wGR5SYc_OpjMsDTNmJH5xtA40ZnCeamAJJQTHBT1VHom7gIWVchbMAPz-dOy8ZDxBJ_EvtpcYVtHnk/s1600/NeyBarn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi84OOVwIW6FLj5YGqww9VS6_0BZuJ34bHHJMR50Iu2DISOpVwv4n-6dYpXLt5W6wGR5SYc_OpjMsDTNmJH5xtA40ZnCeamAJJQTHBT1VHom7gIWVchbMAPz-dOy8ZDxBJ_EvtpcYVtHnk/s400/NeyBarn.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Exterior of the Ney cabin showing half dovetail notching and board and batten siding</span>.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoFK9EOyxyo4OxkCw-Iv7QN4l-tdQnRyayFTXZWbUxJnFuz8jr6pBC-vE3aRVt68Eg-GTPQnTBqKC0ADLYnAumX0QBj4DRzY6u95kSjavW21xZjCvuvLCCliW5ijIkEQUkVu3hez52PRU/s1600/Interior.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoFK9EOyxyo4OxkCw-Iv7QN4l-tdQnRyayFTXZWbUxJnFuz8jr6pBC-vE3aRVt68Eg-GTPQnTBqKC0ADLYnAumX0QBj4DRzY6u95kSjavW21xZjCvuvLCCliW5ijIkEQUkVu3hez52PRU/s400/Interior.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The cabin's interior showing the hewn logs and rafters and plaster remnants</span>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">19<sup>th</sup> century plaster was made from lime, sand and sometimes animal hair and applied in up to three coats over wooden lath. The plaster was mixed on site (the lime often coming from local deposits of limestone) and lath split or riven from trees felled in the area. Wilhelm Ney split his lath from small branches of willow trees which were abundant along the nearby Minnesota River. The lath was nailed directly to the log walls with a straw backing which allowed the lime plaster to adhere more easily. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTzVfdUnD0nX-hmPpM4AZRWbhjMZvZpxgGLSr6lK-5k6j9QD9qj-GVDeKQbboCfSl4OhleanLQYcvVoWqZwgMKs_OnGtBXmFG76EEB8WqBF0imk38-qMiKumUhwT2VzBHMjzYBD71xS8c/s1600/SEWall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTzVfdUnD0nX-hmPpM4AZRWbhjMZvZpxgGLSr6lK-5k6j9QD9qj-GVDeKQbboCfSl4OhleanLQYcvVoWqZwgMKs_OnGtBXmFG76EEB8WqBF0imk38-qMiKumUhwT2VzBHMjzYBD71xS8c/s400/SEWall.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;">Plaster remnants, willow lath and wooden pegs used to hold tack for the Neys' horses.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2ZYo7uM_5w4FWC6Yc-7oteipBqmvf3QYget_NMK7gUeCvosVOy6RQGOeVaUPWwZjqhiGbO1SeWsDBc2XD03sWDsU1RQrs8tGGm0dw0eICpoe_0YJ50xZ7GOJJvMHR9ZkxNw5kGN1AWg/s1600/Plaster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2ZYo7uM_5w4FWC6Yc-7oteipBqmvf3QYget_NMK7gUeCvosVOy6RQGOeVaUPWwZjqhiGbO1SeWsDBc2XD03sWDsU1RQrs8tGGm0dw0eICpoe_0YJ50xZ7GOJJvMHR9ZkxNw5kGN1AWg/s400/Plaster.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;">Close-up of the lath, plaster and straw.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">Once the newly plastered walls had cured they could be white washed, painted with brightly tinted oil or kalsomine paint or even covered with fashionable wallpaper bought at the local dry goods store. Indeed, some plaster, paint, siding and a new frame-and-panel door could make a log cabin look as refined as a frame house built in town. Only its thick, log walls might betray its humble beginnings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;">The Ney log cabin can be visited at the <a href="http://neycenter.org/">Ney Nature Center</a> located just a few miles east of <a href="http://www.hendersonmn.com/index.php">Henderson, MN</a> along State Highway 19. </span></div>
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Historic Design Consulting LLC.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06764011546409378801noreply@blogger.com2